Before you listen to this BBC podcast I'd like to quickly tell you about some others.

My name's Andy Martin and I'm the editor of a team of podcast producers at the BBC in Northern Ireland.

It's a job I really love because we get to tell the stories that really matter

to people here, but which also resonate and apply to listeners around the world.

And because the team is such a diverse range of skills and strengths. We have trained journalists, people who love digging through archives, we've got drama and even comedy experts. We really can do those stories justice.

So if you like this podcast head to BBC

science where you'll find plenty more fascinating stories from all around the

UK.

It's 5 a.m. I'm heading out east out of London with my producer Lucy toward a sort of

of watery sunrise,

past the chicken chops and foxes

rooting through rubbish.

And we're going to meet a guy at a service station just on the motorway.

The man has a package for me.

And the package itself is a source of some anxiety for me.

I mean it's already caused a bit of an argument between me and Dine and my wife.

But I also think this package is going to answer some big questions, questions that all of us need to ask.

From BBC Radio 4, this is Fed with me, Chris Van Telen.

I'm investigating the forces that shape what we eat

and what that means for all of us.

If the service station was open, I think it would feel all a little bit less weird, but why are we all gathered here at the four six in the morning? I'm currently standing outside an empty service station at dawn on the M25.

And frankly, I'm a bit out of my comfort zone.

...