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Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

Esther, Queen of the Desert

Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

The Independent

Places & Travel, Leisure, Society & Culture

3.6628 Ratings

🗓️ 6 March 2026

⏱️ 6 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

I am in Broken Hill, New South Wales: the Silver City. Besides being a classic Australian mining town, it has been the location for some cult movies – including Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. The central set for the music was the marvellous Palace Hotel, whose co-owner is today’s guest. Esther La Rovere has been telling me what makes Broken Hill so special.


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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to today's independent travel podcast with me, Simon Calder. It's Friday the 6th of March.

0:09.8

I have found the most astonishingly Australian location in the world. I'm speaking to you from

0:16.6

beautiful Broken Hill, which is in New South Wales Wales but very close to the South Australian border

0:22.5

not too far actually north of the Victorian border I'm here for all sorts of reasons

0:27.7

partly to get to the heart of Australia but also because you might remember a film called

0:33.4

Priscilla Queen of the Desert it was set here in a wonderful location where I happen to be

0:40.1

staying for a very reasonable $80 a night, the Palace Hotel. I am delighted to be talking to the

0:47.5

owner, Esther La Reverevere. Esther, you own the palace along with your sister and your brother-in-law.

0:52.7

I sure do. Yeah, I've been there, so probably 16 years, I think it is now. Tell us about the place. We bought the hotel. It had actually been closed for a couple of years. So Mario, who was the long-time owner, had unfortunately passed away and the building had been closed. So it's been a slow process of renovation and getting that building

1:11.4

back into full operation. You know, as you see, it's very large building, three-story, big

1:16.4

ornate Australian sort of Federation heritage architecture and covered in, of course, all of those

1:22.3

fantastic murals that you see in Priscilla that were painted by an indigenous artist.

1:27.4

It is a piece of

1:29.1

art architecture and history. Can you tell me a bit about it, story? Building was originally

1:34.8

built in 1889 and funded by the Temperance Movement. So of course, so anti-alcohol and they

1:40.8

built it as a coffee palace. So back in the day, but you know, as you can

1:45.1

imagine, probably Pengement wasn't so much for coffee and it did turn into a working hotel

1:49.3

only two years later. I was there on Wednesday night, karaoke night. It was fantastic,

1:54.4

but not too much coffee being drunk from what I can say. No. It's sort of become absolutely the social hub for the town.

2:03.4

There must have been 200 people there,

2:06.0

spilling out onto the street,

2:07.7

just a really good atmosphere.

...

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