Ep 69 - Cut Ropes In El Potrero Mexico - Foster Denney

the Sharp End Podcast

Sports

4.8 • 1K Ratings

🗓️ 1 October 2021

⏱️ 30 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Foster and his two best friends were in the sport multi pitch climbing paradise that is El Potrero Chico in north eastern Mexico. It was their fourth visit to that climbing area and they had their eyes on a 15 pitch climb called ‘Devotion 5.11d.’ It’s a lesser known climb that is notorious for being a bit run out, hard for the grade, and chossy. Listen in to this episode to hear Foster’s account of his huge fall that resulted in a remote helicopter rescue. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, MyMedic and Desert Mountain Medicine. ---> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product at foursigmatic.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Transcript

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0:00.0	My partner beside me was still frozen in shock. We started pulling his rope as fast as we could.
0:15.0	With another sickening flick I saw another rope whipped down. Our friend was alone,
0:20.0	some 150 feet above the ledge with 1,300 feet of dead air below him.
0:25.0	I screamed telling him the ropes were cut.
0:28.0	They were panicking, unable to understand me.
0:30.0	I told him to put in a piece of protection and stay there. More panicking, yelling. Then my partner
0:36.3	recied me woke up from the stupor. We kept yelling. We kept trying to make him understand.
0:41.5	There was some screams, some loud noises, some nose,
0:45.6	then suddenly in slow motion, I saw him turn. Strike and outcropping, roll midair, fall for
0:52.4	another short eon, and then I saw his face.
0:55.0	A sick, twisted, horror mask of fear, pain, and sorrow.
1:00.0	It's a look I imagine I won't soon forget.
1:03.8	With a peculiar smack and what may be the most meaningless coincidence of my life, he struck
1:08.0	a stout little tree several feet from me and landed in a bundle of cactus. He screamed and I was in shock. He was alive and he was conscious.
1:16.4	Joe was one of Foster Denny's climbing partners that day and that was his personal
1:27.1	reflection.
1:28.7	You were listening to the Sharp End podcast and in this episode I talk with Foster Denny about his big fall in
1:34.8	L Portrayer Chico Mexico. Sit back, relax, and please enjoy. improve your
1:45.0	communication at the mountains.
1:49.0	get yourself a pair of rocky talkies.
1:51.0	Rocky talkies are backcountry radios designed by two climbers from Denver.
1:55.8	These radios are extremely lightweight, durable, and more affordable than any other
	...

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