EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.2 • 576 Ratings

🗓️ 22 May 2025

⏱️ 93 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more. Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight!

Transcript

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0:00.0	I have tried many different finger training protocols over the years and have gotten a book full of advice during the past five years of the podcast from a wide number of guests.
0:10.0	And while I've made progress from max hangs to repeaters and everything in between, I've struggled to find something that felt easy to stick to over the long term.
0:19.0	I wanted a program that I could do over and over again
0:23.0	and be consistent with it whether I'm training or trying to send my project or taking time off
0:28.6	when life gets busy. I bring you the grinds program. I created the grinds program based on many
0:34.4	conversations I've had over the years with experts like Tyler Nelson, Ned
0:38.3	Feeley, Aidan Roberts, and Ollie Tor, to name a few. And I also based it on many, many years of my
0:44.6	own training experiments. It's designed to be used with the Nug, so it's super convenient, but you can
0:50.2	use it with other hangboards as well. I've seen great results from it so far, and I'm really excited about it. If you want to try it out, head over to the nuggetcliming.com
0:58.8	and enter your email to get the Grines Program PDF and a printable log sheet for free.
1:04.4	Just go to my website, the nuggetclimbing.com, and the rest will be obvious. I hope you check it out
1:09.6	and happy training.
1:13.6	Hello, friends, and welcome to the show. I've got another patron spotlight for you today.
1:20.1	Stephen Bergey is on the show. Stephen is here to remind all of us that if you want to climb
1:25.2	hard things outside, you got to go outside. You got to put in
1:29.3	the time on your outdoor projects. Stephen started climbing at 31 years old. He's currently 35 years
1:36.0	old and has already climbed V11 outdoors. And it sounds like he got really close on a couple more
1:41.7	V11s this spring season. And yeah, he's got an old
1:45.1	school approach. He spends a little bit of time in the gym, but he doesn't do any formal training,
1:49.4	doesn't do any finger training. He just goes outside and tries his hard projects. And it's a good
1:56.0	reminder. I'm guessing that most of you who listen to my podcast spend most of your time in the gym. I obviously
2:02.2	talk a lot about training and different finger training protocols and board climbing and all this
	...

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