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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Project, The Nugget, Lattice Training, Alpine Climbing, Climbing, Sports, Climbing Nugget, Self-improvement, Sport Climbing, Rock Climbing, Smith Rock, Careless, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, Bouldering, Gold, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Thenuggetclimbing, Fitness, Training Beta, Wilderness, Runout, Nuggetclimbing, Steven Dimmitt, Steven Dimmit, Training, Nugget Podcast, Climbing History, American, Nugget, The, Nugget Climbing Podcast, The Climbing Nugget, Struggle, Climbing Podcast, The American Climbing Project, The Nugget Climbing, Climbing Gold, Climb, Power Company, Yosemite, Enormocast, Health & Fitness, Lattice, @Thenuggetclimbing, Climber, Dirtbag Diaries, Alex Honnold, Climbing Training, Testpiece, The Struggle Climbing Show, Education, Trad Climbing, Talk, The Struggle, For The Love Of Climbing, Training For Climbing, Dirtbag, Sharp End, Nugget Climbing

4.0589 Ratings

🗓️ 20 May 2024

⏱️ 128 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.

0:05.7

This is your host, Stephen Dimit.

0:08.2

My guest today is Alanna Yip.

0:10.9

Alana is a professional climber from Canada.

0:14.0

She is 30 years old and is coming to the end of her competition career.

0:17.9

She plans to retire after the Paris Olympics. She is trying to qualify

0:22.4

right now and just competed at the first qualifying series in China. We've got another one in one

0:28.6

month, so anything could still happen. And yeah, she's had an amazing career. She is already

0:34.2

an Olympian. She competed in the Tokyo Olympics for Team Canada. It was really interesting to hear about her experience in Tokyo and some of the lessons from Tokyo that she's been using to prepare for the qualifying series for Paris. I really enjoyed Atlanta. She's an open book. She was totally game with digging into some pretty

0:54.9

uncomfortable topics. If you follow her on Instagram, you'll know that she got diagnosed with

0:59.3

alipatia back in December and lost all of her hair and ended up completely shaving her head.

1:06.1

And I wanted to know what that journey has been like for her and what she's been through

1:09.8

and where she's at with it now. And yeah, I don't want to say too much about it here, but it was a really

1:14.7

great conversation. She's also experienced an eating disorder as a teenager and it wasn't related

1:20.9

to climbing performance, which was interesting to learn, but she still cares passionately about

1:26.4

that topic. And she's been involved with the IFSC to help

1:30.5

put better policies into place for screening and trying to prevent eating disorders and red

1:36.1

s in athletes and she's spoken publicly about that so i wanted to hear some of her thoughts and

1:42.3

we got into the challenges that the IFSC is facing and the complexity of the whole thing.

1:48.1

And the good news is things are moving in a positive direction.

1:51.5

So yeah, all in all, a great conversation.

1:54.4

We covered a lot of ground.

...

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