EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 10 May 2024

⏱️ 91 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more! You can learn more about Mat at matwrightcoaching.com

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast.
0:05.3	This is your host, Stephen Dimit.
0:07.7	Matt Wright is back on the show today.
0:09.5	This is his second appearance, and he's here to talk about his recent send of Rhapsody,
0:14.2	which is so cool.
0:15.6	This is a really big deal because this is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.
0:20.5	For those of you who don't know, Rhapsody was first put up by Dave McLeod.
0:25.1	Back in 2006, it was the hardest trad route in the world at the time, given a grade of E11.
0:31.5	That E grade is a grading system used over in the UK.
0:35.5	It incorporates the entire difficulty of the climb, including the danger
0:39.6	and psychological difficulty. And this one is crazy. Basically for you guys listening in the US,
0:46.0	this is like a 514B or 514C trad route with a huge runout at the top. And if you fall off the last hard moves, which are very
0:56.8	hard, this is 514 climbing up there at the top, you're guaranteed to take like a 60 foot
1:02.7	whipper, at least, maybe bigger. Some of the videos of the falls from this thing, Matt actually
1:08.5	has an amazing video of him taking that fall on his Instagram
1:11.7	if you want to check that out. But some of the falls are just crazy. So yeah, 60 feet, 20 meters,
1:17.5	maybe even more if you fall off the last hard moves. And most people that try it do. So it's pretty
1:23.8	intense, pretty amazing. I think Matt is only like the sixth ascent of this route, despite it being around for
1:30.7	almost a couple decades now.
1:32.3	So pretty big deal, really excited for him.
1:34.9	He talked about it in our first episode, and it was something that he had tried and then
1:39.9	walked away from for a while, and it was really cool to hear mostly his mental approach and how
	...

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