EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 22 May 2023

⏱️ 119 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out!

Transcript

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0:00.0	This episode is brought to you by crimped. This is the best app I have seen when it comes to self-coached
0:08.0	training for rock climbing. Krimp has dozens of workouts crafted by world-class climbers and coaches
0:14.0	that focus on all of the different facets of climbing performance and training, including
0:20.0	workouts to guide your outdoor climbing. I just did
0:23.4	a really fun collaboration with the guys at crimped, and now all of you can try my three
0:28.4	favorite outdoor bouldering workouts right there in the crimped app. We've got one called
0:33.6	Stevens Outdoor Bouldering Warmup, which is my go-to warm-up on a bouldering day. We've got
0:39.0	Stevens Outdoor Limit Bouldering, which will guide you through my approach to projecting hard
0:44.1	boulders. And finally, we've got Stevens Outdoor Strength Zone Bouldering, which will guide you
0:49.8	through a strength-focused bouldering session. I've used that one a lot in Waco tanks over the past few years with great results.
0:57.2	And it's a great format for sending some of those second-tier boulders and building strength
1:01.7	out there on the rock.
1:03.8	Check out the crimped app at crimped.com.
1:06.2	That's C-R-I-M-P-D-com to get started and download the crim-R-I-M-T-A-P-R-M-P-D-R-R-R-E-N to try my go-to-outdoor
1:19.3	workouts.
1:20.3	That's crimped.com or find the crimped app in the app store.
1:23.8	It's totally free to try.
1:25.3	Type Stephen in the search and have fun out there on the
1:28.6	boulders.
1:31.8	Hello, friends. Welcome to the Nugget Climbing podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimit,
1:37.8	and I'm recording this intro in Switzerland. This is my first podcast intro that I've recorded
1:43.7	here. I've recorded here.
	...

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