EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 15 May 2023

⏱️ 185 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!

Transcript

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0:00.0	This episode is brought to you by Fizzy Vantage, the official climbing nutrition sponsor of the Nugget Climbing podcast.
0:09.4	Fizzy Vantage is the leading brand in climbing nutrition, with more than 40 professional climbers now using Fizzy Vantage products daily to support their training and climbing performance.
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1:02.2	product. That's Nugget 15 at checkout, and you can find a direct link to this coupon right there
1:07.7	in your podcast app. This episode is brought to you by Athletic Greens.
1:13.6	Athletic Greens has become one of my favorite parts of my morning routine.
1:18.4	I wake up, throw on a podcast at a scoop of athletic greens to about 8 to 12 ounces of cold water,
1:24.4	shake that up, and I sip on that while I'm making my coffee and breakfast.
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	...

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