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Adventure Sports Podcast

Ep. 1051: Alpine Rising, The Triumph of Local Climbers in the Himalayas - Bernadette McDonald

Adventure Sports Podcast

Curt Linville

Sports, Nature, Fitness, Wilderness, Science, Health & Fitness

4.6579 Ratings

🗓️ 5 August 2024

⏱️ 55 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Mountaineering: Bernadette McDonald on Alpine Rising – Honoring Forgotten Sherpas Like Ang Tharkay, Local Heroes of Annapurna and K2 Winter Ascents, and Celebrating Pakistani and Nepali Climbers' Contributions.

"Alpine Rising is a fascinating history of the crucial and frequently tragic role of local Nepalis, Tibetans, and Pakistanis on mountaineering expeditions to the world’s highest peaks."-- Jon Krakauer

The name of Maurice Herzog, the first man to reach the summit of Annapurna, is widely recognized, but how many know Ang Tharkay, the Sherpa who carried the seriously frostbitten Herzog on his back for miles? Although rarely mentioned in published accounts of early expeditions, local climbers have long been significant members of first ascents on the world’s tallest and most challenging peaks. In Alpine Rising, award-winning writer Bernadette McDonald sets the record straight by shining a light on these too often forgotten heroes.

Now, in the 21st century, it is often local climbers who are setting records. A Nepali team was the first to climb K2 in winter; they reached the summit while singing their national anthem. Pakistani climbers like Little Karim and Ali Sadpara devoted their lives to helping others survive and succeed on and off the mountains and their stories deserve to be more widely known. Not only a timely reminder of the need to recognize the contributions of local climbers and the importance of correcting the historical record, Alpine Rising is a celebration of a region’s local heroes.

Sales benefit the Khumbu Climbing Center (Nepal) and the ASCEND climbing program for girls (Pakistan)

Bernadette McDonald has authored twelve books and has won numerous awards, including two Boardman Tasker Prizes, the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, Italy’s ITAS Prize, and India’s Kekoo Naoroji Award. In 2011 the American Alpine Club awarded her their highest literary honour for excellence in mountain literature.

Bernadette was the founding Vice President of Mountain Culture at The Banff Centre and director of the Banff Mountain Festivals for 20 years. She received the Alberta Order of Excellence in 2010, is an honorary member of the Himalayan Club and the Polish Mountaineering Association, and is a Fellow of the Explorers Club.

When not writing, Bernadette climbs, hikes, skis, paddles and grows grapes.

You can purchase Alpine Rising at mountaineers.org


Learn more about Bernadette and her other works: 

bernadettemcdonald.ca

bernadettemcdonald.com



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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hey folks, welcome to the Adventure Sports podcast. I'm your host, Mason Gravely. Today we're talking to

0:11.3

Bernadette McDonald. She is an alumni of the show. She's been on the show before talking about

0:15.9

a winter 8,000, climbing the 8,000 meter peaks, which are in the Himalayan Mountains, during the winter,

0:22.6

some of those stories.

0:23.5

Well, today is almost an evolution of that story.

0:26.4

It's called Alpine Rising, Sherpas, Baltis, and the triumph of local climbers in the

0:32.0

greater ranges.

0:32.9

And it's basically the history of how Sherpas started getting involved in mountaineering in the Himalayas,

0:40.1

but also how they were often overlooked, those who are helping these oftentimes Western climbers

0:46.0

reach these summits to glory. Well, Sherpas were often not even named in a lot of these

0:51.5

expeditions, even though they were doing all the work and

0:54.1

obviously doing more work a lot of the times in these climbers by carrying a bunch of other

0:58.8

gear and assisting with navigation and sometimes rescuing people, literally, without any sort of

1:04.5

mention. And so, Bernadette set out to help set that story straight and bring more attention

1:10.2

and talk about the shift in that

1:12.8

culture where in the 21st century we're seeing a lot more local climbing teams do some first

1:19.0

descents and some really amazing challenges, which has been awesome to see and also ownership

1:24.4

of the entire Himalayan mountaineering industry being more owned by those who

1:30.8

are local to those mountains, not by Western companies. Probably a couple times a year we check in

1:36.1

on what's going on in the Himalayas. I know for a lot of y'all that listen, that might be

1:40.6

the pinnacle of your adventure hopes and aspirations is to eventually climb one of the tallest peaks in the world.

1:46.9

Maybe it is even Everest.

...

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