Tio Hopu is a small village on the southern tip of Tahiti.

With its warm water and lush coastline, it is a paradise.

The epitome and its waves are some of the heaviest on the planet.

From start to finish, it's life or death. Garrett McNamara is a legend in the surfing world, who's ridden some of the biggest waves

on the planet.

When he unexpectedly gets knocked off his board, he has to step away from doing the thing that

makes him the happiest.

This week, Garrett tells the story of how instead of only chasing the next wave and the

biggest swell, we can learn to embrace all the moments life has to offer.

In this series, we combine immersive first-person stories, breathtaking music, and mindfulness

prompts so that we may see our lives reflected back to us in other people's stories.

And that can lead to improvements in our own inner lives.

From Wait What, this is meditative story.

I'm Rohan, and I'll be your guide.

Thank you. I'm Rohan and I'll be your guide. The body relaxed.

The body breathing.

Your senses open, your mind open, meeting, meeting the world.

I start floating in the water.

I start floating in the water.

I find my center of balance on my board, and I pull down slightly on my life jacket.

I close my eyes and do my breathe-ups.

In and out.

...