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Dressed: The History of Fashion

Dressed Classic: Fashion and Film, Part II

Dressed: The History of Fashion

Dressed Media

History, Society & Culture, Fashion & Beauty, Arts

4.61.6K Ratings

🗓️ 5 January 2023

⏱️ 41 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

We continue to explore the intimate relationship between fashion and film from World War II into the 1970s.

Recommended Reading:

  • Deborah Nadoolman Landis's Dressed: A Century of Hollywood Costume Design (Harper Design, 2007)
  • Hollywood Costume (Harry N. Abrams, 2013)
  • Christopher Laverty's Fashion in Film (Laurence King, 2016)
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Transcript

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0:00.0

You

0:30.0

Welcome dress listeners to part two of our series on the history of fashion and film.

0:44.7

Yes, and last week we talked about the origins of the semiotic relationship between fashion and

0:50.0

Hollywood film, but we only got into the 1930s. So today we're moving out of the 30s and into

0:57.0

the 1940s, which of course takes us straight into World War II. And on the show we've talked a

1:03.2

lot about fashion and war as it relates to Europe during both World War I and World War II,

1:09.4

but less so about the relationship fashion and war in America.

1:14.0

Great and it's actually incredibly fascinating because throughout the 1930s,

1:18.3

America's changing perception of their homegrown talent was reflected in the era's leading fashion

1:23.5

magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Both of these magazines began to feature American

1:28.7

fashion designers more and more throughout the decade. Elizabeth Haas reflected on this

1:33.2

transitory period and American fashion in her book Fashion is Spinach, which was published in 1938.

1:39.3

And in it she writes quote, in the late 20s, 90% of the drawings and photographs were the work

1:44.4

of Prisian Couturiers. And she's talking about Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and then she says,

1:49.3

many pages in both magazines are now devoted to clothes created in America for American life.

1:54.8

The outbreak of World War II in 1939 marked a significant shift in the fate of American

2:00.4

designers who, having continued to operate in the shadow of Paris throughout the 1930s,

2:06.0

were suddenly left to stand all on their own. And during the German occupation of Paris from June

2:12.1

1940 to August of 1944, many of the leading French Couture houses were forced to close. And those that

2:19.2

did remain open did so under severely limited operations and some pretty severe restrictions as well.

2:26.1

Right. And for those of our listeners who might not have heard it April actually did a fantastic

2:30.6

interview on stuff you missed in history class, which we featured a couple months ago. So check it

...

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