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Decoder Ring | How Protein Muscled Its Way to the Top

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Slate Podcasts

News, Business, Society & Culture

41.1K Ratings

🗓️ 19 November 2025

⏱️ 46 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Americans are currently besotted with protein. It’s touted as being good for muscle growth, weight loss, skincare, mental acuity, longevity, and much else besides. It’s sold to men, women, children, the elderly— you can even buy protein for your pets. The protein supplement market alone is worth $21 billion and growing—and extra protein is being added to coffee, cereal, pasta, beer, ice cream, and popcorn. But as frenzied as we currently are about protein, this is not the first protein boom—or even the second. Protein has been promoted as a charismatic, cure-all nutrient for nearly two centuries. In this episode, with the help of Samantha King and Gavin Weedon, the authors of Protein: The Making of a Nutritional Superstar, we look closely at all our protein crazes and their associated protein products—from beef tea to whey powder—and see what they can tell us about our current protein mania.  This episode was produced by Max Freedman. Decoder Ring is also produced by Willa Paskin, Katie Shepherd, and Evan Chung, our supervising producer. We had editing support from Josh Levin and fact-checking by Sophie Summergrad. Merritt Jacob is Senior Technical Director. If you have any cultural mysteries you want us to decode, email us at [email protected]  or leave a message on our hotline at (347) 460-7281. Get more of Decoder Ring with Slate Plus! Join for exclusive bonus episodes of Decoder Ring and ad-free listening on all your favorite Slate podcasts. Subscribe from the Decoder Ring show page on Apple Podcasts or Spotify. Or, visit slate.com/decoderplus for access wherever you listen. Sources for This Episode King, Samantha and Gavin Weedon. Protein: The Making of a Nutritional Superstar, Duke University Press, 2026. Baker, Ryan. “Protein has become America's latest obsession. Companies like General Mills and PepsiCo are capitalizing on it,” CNBC, July 22, 2025. Brock, William H. Justus von Liebig: The Chemical Gatekeeper, Cambridge University Press, 1997. Callahan, Alice. “The More Protein, the Better?” New York Times, April 9, 2025. Draper, Kevin. “America’s Protein Obsession Is Transforming the Dairy Industry,” New York Times, July 16, 2025. Gayomali, Chris. “Big Food Gets Jacked: How protein mania took over the American grocery store,” New York Magazine, Feb. 12, 2025. “The Great Protein Fiasco,” Maintenance Phase, Aug. 31, 2021. Liebig, Justus von. Researches on the Chemistry of Food, Taylor and Walton, 1847. McLaren, Donald S. “The Great Protein Fiasco,” The Lancet, 1974. Oncken, John. “Stingy, 'half-way' dairy farmer's curiosity changed the world,” Wisconsin State Farmer, April 27, 2022. “Subject of Whey Disposal Discussed in UW Bulletin.” Wausau Daily Herald, Aug. 28, 1965. Torrella, Kenny. “You’re probably eating way too much protein,” Vox, Jan. 30, 2024. Wilson, Bee. “Protein mania: the rich world’s new diet obsession,” The Guardian, Jan. 4, 2019. Wu, Katherine J. “Should We All Be Eating Like The Rock?” The Atlantic, Aug. 28, 2023. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

All right.

0:07.6

Let's see what happens.

0:09.0

We go into the supermarket.

0:11.0

A couple of weeks ago, I took a trip to my local grocery store.

0:14.5

You know what you're having for dinner tonight?

0:16.6

No, actually, I don't.

0:18.3

I was looking for something in particular.

0:20.5

Okay, so I'm now in the soup aisle. I've got a Progresso. I was looking for protein. 20 grams of protein on a Mediterranean-style meatball and chicken. 17 grams of protein on a chickpea and noodle. These are all right on the front of the Progresso. It's like 19 grams of protein. It's like actually the biggest piece of text on the can, including Progresso. It's bigger than Progresso.

0:41.8

When I say I was looking for protein, I don't mean I was trying to find some steak or chicken

0:45.8

or beans or tofu. I mean, I was trying to get a sense of the products bragging, like all of those

0:51.5

progresso soups, about how many grams of protein they contain.

0:56.8

And boy, did I find them.

0:59.2

Ooh, Chobandi zero sugar, 12 grams of protein is telling me right on the packaging.

1:03.2

Ooh, ratio's got 25 grams of protein.

1:05.4

All these yogurts every, like most of them have.

1:08.0

On them how much protein they have.

1:09.3

Ooh, bumblebee tuna.

1:29.3

Albuquer. 18 grams of protein in water. And then protein plus ricketone from Borilla. The pasta taste you love. Protein plus. Look at that. These are like lunchebles in their yellow top, nice big lunchebles font. And then the protein is in a big red circle on them. 20 grams of protein in hardwood smoked oysters. Oh, protein crackers.

1:30.3

Milton's protein crackers.

1:31.3

Ooh, lean cuisine even.

1:32.3

Protein kicks.

1:33.3

Swedish meatballs.

...

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