Hello and welcome to today's independent travel podcast with me Simon Calder. It's Tuesday,

the 12th of December and I'm in a very, very lively and busy cafe which is on the corner of a busy intersection. In the past minute I have seen more

cars than I saw when I was at this same intersection, well just 24 years or so ago. Yes, I am in

Albania and my goodness me, the place has changed. I've been coming here

actually since the 1980s and I cannot recognise the place apart from a few odd bits and pieces

like the Great Hotel Tirana which has actually barely changed. A lot of the government ministries are looking as

though they've had a coat of paint, but nothing else. And so just to put this destination into

perspective, it's roughly, of course, the size of Wales. It's on the Adriatic coast, squeezed

between Montenegro and Greece and so facing directly opposite the

effectively the heel of Italy. Capital Tirana is relatively central. Behind me is a

marvellous range of mountains and actually mountains are the main characteristic of the

place. In the north you've got the

lovely town of Skodra in the south, the very important classical ruins of Butrinth. And in

between, just mountains, forests, the fantastic Lake Ochrid, which is shared with North Macedonia and so much more.

And it's interesting to return.

I was in the beautiful resort, well, port of Durez.

It's actually going to be the biggest marina on the Adriatic coast in a couple of years.

Transformation here is remarkable. As I've been hearing from the

tourism minister, who is Mirella Cumbaro.

You know, you, in Albania, you have to come for, if you are curious, Albania is a destination.

If you want new experience, Albania is a destination. If you want new experience, Albania is a destination.

If you want an experience with good surprises,

...