NPR. Darien Woods, good to see you.

Willa Rubin, Planet Money Producers it.

Now, where in the world are you?

I am in Berlin for a fellowship,

and I want to take you on a little field trip to a place at the center of a new battle over regulation and competition.

We are going to a Donor Cabob shop in Berlin.

Okay, Dona Cababs, you know those sandwiches that have minced or sliced meat, not my thing personally

as a vegetarian, but they are delicious for the people who eat them.

I have seen vegan donor kebabs for what it's worth.

Okay.

But yeah, donor cabs, they originally come from Turkey and they are super popular all around Europe,

including here in Germany.

People here spend almost two.5 billion euros on them every year

according to an industry estimate. I'm the other day I'm at Arif Kellish,

owner of Hisar Fresh food in Schoenaberg.

He showed me around the kitchen.

There's a work station where bread is being grilled.

There's a section for sauces, another for salads, and then there is the meat.

Mmm, delightful.

Picture this giant greasy log of meat, like the size of a fire hydrant, rotating on a spit in front of a heat source.

But soon the way Arif makes donor kebabs might have to change because Turkey filed an application

with the EU which said donor kebabs originally come from Turkey they are culturally

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