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Gastropod

Canned Tomatoes and the Myth of the San Marzano

Gastropod

Cynthia Graber and Nicola Twilley

Science, Arts, History, Food

4.73.7K Ratings

🗓️ 13 January 2026

⏱️ 52 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Canned tomatoes are a perfect winter food. As you'll know from our tomato episode, the beautiful fruits in fresh aisle of the supermarket are mostly flavorless outside of the summer season—but the tomatoes that get packed in a can are cheap, readily available, and, most importantly, delicious year-round. This episode, we have the stories of how turtle poop, full English fry-ups, and an Italian romance helped turn the canned tomato into a pantry hero. Plus, are San Marzanos really the best tasting option out there? We've got the juicy tips you need to score the ultimate tomato fix, no matter the season! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

We're gonna pull a plant right now so I can show you guys what we do every day.

0:06.0

So, you can see here, you can see some tomatoes on top, right? It looks nice.

0:10.0

But where the real magic is, under here.

0:15.0

That's where you really see everything.

0:18.0

It's so nuts how many tomatoes there are. I'm really shocked.

0:22.6

You guys want to hold it? Sure. Oh my god. It's a good workout for sure. There's a lot of tomato.

0:32.1

Wow, that weighs a ton. It's like buried treasure. Nikki and I had each hefted a massive tomato plant into the air, and we were loaded up to our elbows in bright red fruit.

0:43.2

It was truly amazing.

0:44.8

And what made it even more amazing was this was just two plants in a field full of them, all covered in perfect red plum-shaped tomatoes.

0:56.5

But you could hardly see any of them until you lifted the plants up into the air. From the surface, it was just a carpet of green.

1:01.8

We were visiting this tomato field because we promised you a full episode all about canned tomatoes.

1:07.6

We, of course, are Gastropod, the podcast that looks at food through the lens of science and history. I'm Cynthia Graber. And I'm Nicola Twilly. And after having so much fun

1:15.3

getting into the story of fresh tomatoes and how they lost their flavor last summer, we are back

1:20.8

with a winter-themed take on our favorite fruit that's really more of a vegetable. What do the Civil

1:26.4

War and Galapagos turtles have to do with the development of this pantry

1:29.7

staple? And are San Marzano's all there cracked up to be?

1:32.7

This episode is supported in part by the Alfred P. Sloan Foundation for the public understanding

1:37.4

of science, technology, and economics.

1:39.7

Gastropod is part of the Vox Media Podcast Network in partnership with Itter.

1:48.0

Support is part of the Vox Media Podcast Network in partnership with each. Support for the show comes from one password. A password manager should be the first security purchase you make for your team. Why? Because compromised passwords are the number one way bad actors attack companies, and small businesses are their favorite targets.

2:01.6

But unlike a lot of security challenges, passwords actually have a pretty simple solution.

2:06.6

OnePassword lets you manage all your business credentials so you can feel confident that your data stays secure as your company grows.

...

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