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The Business of Fashion Podcast

Can Farfetch Be Fixed?

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 4 March 2025

⏱️ 29 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near-bankruptcy. Since then, Coupang has implemented sweeping cost-cutting measures that have narrowed losses significantly, but are eroding Farfetch’s footing in the luxury e-commerce space and alienating its core customers. 


DTC correspondent Malique Morris joins Executive Editor Brian Baskin and Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to examine Farfetch’s path to profitability.


Key Insights: 


  • Coupang's relentless drive to push Farfetch toward profitability clashes with the premium expectations of luxury shoppers as cost-cutting is prioritised over customer experience. “Coupang is so hyper‐focused on getting Farfetch to profitability ... and when you're dealing with people who are spending $100,000 a year on the marketplace, it doesn't quite work that way,” explains Morris. “They’ve also cut teams dedicated to working with Farfetch’s VIP customers, who can make up as much as 30% of the company’s annual sales.” This tension between operational efficiency and delivering a high-end experience is at the heart of Farfetch's challenges.



  • Farfetch’s “sold by Farfetch” programme highlights its growing disconnect with luxury brands. As luxury powerhouses like Celine, Alaia and Kering – which includes Gucci, Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta — pull their collections from the platform, Farfetch has turned to a grey market tactic to maintain its inventory. “Instead of sending the goods straight from the retailers to the customers, the items are now going to a warehouse in Amsterdam to be repackaged,” says Morris. “It's not only a knock to Farfetch's relationship with top brands, but it also risks deteriorating customer service.” This move, intended to sidestep brand resistance risks undermining transparency and trust among high-end partners.



  • Farfetch's biggest superpower is that many independent boutiques still rely on it. “If Farfetch can at least do right by those retail partners, then it probably has a shot of stabilising its footing in online luxury,” says Morris. “Coupang will eventually have to allow Farfetch to reinvest in their relationships with customers and brands. That might cost them a couple million, but hopefully with the renewed focus on just the marketplace, Farfetch won't go back into the red in the process.”



Additional Resources:




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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to the debrief from The Business of Fashion, where each week we delve into our most popular BOLF professional stories with the correspondents who created them.

0:17.1

I'm executive editor Brian Baskin. And I'm senior correspondent Gina Butler Young.

0:22.0

When the South Korean e-commerce giant coupang swooped in and bought the troubled luxury

0:26.2

marketplace far-fetch a little over a year ago, there were plenty of questions about

0:30.9

whether a company that sells toothpaste and toasters could also sell Cuccinelli and Prada.

0:36.1

Thanks to some incredible reporting by BOF e-commerce correspondent Malik Morris,

0:40.7

who recently published a real blockbuster of an article inside Kupang's tug-of-war with

0:45.8

Farfetch, we now know the answer, which is sort of?

0:51.0

Kupang said this week that Farfetch's losses have narrowed significantly, but sales are down by a quarter since 2022.

0:57.8

Malik is here with us today to walk us through it.

0:59.9

Hello, Malik, and welcome to the debrief podcast.

1:02.3

Hi, Brian. Hi, Sheena.

1:03.6

Thank you for having me back.

1:04.8

I always love chatting with you.

1:06.0

I'm really excited to dive into this particular topic today.

1:09.0

And so are we.

1:09.7

I love this story.

1:17.0

So as a startup, Farfetch figured out how to sell a lot of luxury fashion online.

1:20.9

They were the biggest player right up basically to the point where they almost had to file for bankruptcy, which gets to the bigger problem there, which is they never figured out how

1:25.4

to make money selling luxury fashion online. Malik, what was the problem at the heart of Farfetch pre-Coupé?

1:33.9

Yeah, I think a good place that starts to kind of just go back into their history.

1:37.8

You know, Farfetch was actually pretty innovative when it launched in 2008.

...

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