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Good Food

California soul food, matriarchal Indian kitchens, chickens

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.51K Ratings

🗓️ 4 February 2023

⏱️ 57 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Tanya Holland recalls her family’s migration and how settling in California influenced her own brand of soul food. Asma Khan runs the only professional Indian kitchen with an all-female staff and her latest cookbook pays tribute to the women behind the food. When Sonal Ved decided to untangle the origins of Indian cuisine, she decided to tackle one specific dish — the samosa. Chef Johnny Lee steps back from Pearl River Deli to reassess the model, despite its accolades and notorieity. Jacques Pépin has been painting chickens almost as long as he has been roasting the poultry. Finally, peas are already at the farmers’ market.

Transcript

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0:00.0

From KCRW, I'm Evan Kliman, and you're listening to good food.

0:05.0

I agree wholeheartedly with what Alice Waters writes in her forward to Tanya Holland's California Soul,

0:13.8

recipes from a culinary journey west.

0:16.7

She says, I may never make these great dishes,

0:20.2

but I will reread this cookbook for years to come for the stories of incredible

0:25.3

gutsy resourceful intrepid black people who not only came west to California from

0:30.8

the south to begin new lives but continued lives of bravery, will, creativity, and inspiration

0:37.6

for generations following their initial arrival here and continuing to this day.

0:44.0

Tanya Holland is the living embodiment of California's soul

0:47.5

and I'm happy to get to spend some time with her this morning.

0:50.9

Hi Tanya.

0:52.0

Hi Evan, how are you? I'm great. It's so wonderful to have you. I would love it if you

0:58.1

would tell us a bit about your own personal story, your family's personal story, between

1:05.8

1916 and 1970, six million Southern African Americans migrated out of the southern states into urban centers in the

1:15.8

north and west in two different waves. Tell us about where your relatives are from

1:22.1

and any memories you might have of returning to visit those

1:26.7

who elected to stay behind.

1:29.8

Absolutely.

1:30.8

Yeah, so you know my maternal side of the family is from Louisiana and my

1:38.0

grandmother I know was born in 1916. I can't remember when my grandfather was born. He was a little bit older and she had,

1:47.3

oof, a bunch of siblings. I know she had at least four sisters and they all migrated west.

1:54.4

She was the only one who stayed in Shreveport, Louisiana.

...

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