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The Journal.

California's Wine Industry Is in Crisis

The Journal.

The Wall Street Journal

Daily News, Business News, News

4.25.3K Ratings

🗓️ 4 December 2025

⏱️ 19 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The U.S. wine industry hasn’t had it this bad since Prohibition. WSJ’s Laura Cooper reports from Sonoma County, California, a major region for American wine production, on why growers are drowning in unsold grapes, shrinking demand and trade-war fallout. Jessica Mendoza hosts. Further Listening: - Who Wants Non-Alcoholic Beer? Everyone, Apparently. - Why Coke Isn't Getting Rid of High-Fructose Corn Syrup Sign up for WSJ’s free What’s News newsletter. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

The sun is out, and it's warming John Valletto's vineyard in Sonoma County, California.

0:12.0

Rows and rows of pino grapes glint on the vine.

0:16.0

They're destined to be pressed, bottled, and uncorked at holiday parties, or sipped after a toast.

0:25.1

What is your favorite wine?

0:27.5

Well, you know, I have three favorites.

0:29.8

So if it's a warm day, it's our rosé, a pinot noir, on a nice afternoon.

0:36.0

If we're having a nice steak or something, a great bottle of our 18-barreel pinot,

0:43.3

and then if it's just a gentle afternoon, it would be our Teresa Chardonnay.

0:47.6

You're making me thirsty, John.

0:49.0

It's making me want to grab a glass in the middle of my workday.

0:52.6

Probably not a great idea.

0:55.4

John is a second- generation Sonoma farmer.

0:58.0

He planted his first wine grapes in 1995.

1:02.2

Today, he bottles his own wine and also sells a lot of his grapes to other wineries.

1:07.8

Well, on a harvest day, you would find, you'd see a pretty amazing sight.

1:12.7

We have multiple crews, and they're picking and sorting the grapes and bringing them in so we can load them on the trucks, get them to the winery before it gets warm.

1:21.5

Just a wonderful thing.

1:23.3

For years, John's wine business, like the California wine industry more broadly, was a success story.

1:30.2

Americans couldn't get enough of the pinos, the Zinfandelles, and the Chardonnays that Sonoma is known for.

1:36.2

It's just a very special place for us to live here, raise our children here, and also be able to grow wine grapes and make wine. And, you know,

1:46.4

our philosophy is sheer wine with family and friends over a great meal and make new friends.

1:52.6

That's what Sonoma County is.

...

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