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Gastropod

Balls *and* Brains: The Science and History of Offal

Gastropod

Cynthia Graber and Nicola Twilley

Arts, Science, History, Food

4.7 • 3.7K Ratings

🗓️ 9 November 2021

⏱️ 52 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

It’s pretty rare to find organ meat on the dinner table in most American households today, but 90 years ago, the earliest editions of The Joy of Cooking contained dozens of recipes for liver, sweetbreads, and even testicles. For much of history, offal (as organ meat is called) was considered the best part of the animal—so what happened? Why are brains banned in the UK and lungs illegal to sell in the US, and why are Scottish haggis-makers up in arms about it? And the question we’re sure you’ve all been pondering: What do testicles taste like? With the help of Jonathan Reisman, author of the new book The Unseen Body: A Doctor's Journey Through the Hidden Wonders of the Human Anatomy, we explore how the vital functions of various animal organs affect their flavor and taste. Jon’s wife, Anna Wexler, also an academic and a writer, joins us to impart the wisdom she’s gained from years as a judge at the World Testicle Cooking Championship (aka Test Fest). We learn about the culinary history of offal from cookbook author Jennifer McLagan, and butcher Sam Garwin comes over to help us prepare up a massive organ meat feast: a Norwegian heart and lung pate (yes, we scored some lung!); a Georgian testicle stew; rabbit, chicken, and beef liver and onions; and breaded, fried lamb brains. Listen to find out which one we liked best, and which ones were just plain offal! (Sorry, we couldn’t resist.) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

So I'm a little nervous about this.

0:04.6

The next thing we're about to do.

0:07.0

I'm going to take a picture just so that people know how brave we are because it is literally

0:12.5

sitting in a pool of blood and it looks like a Halloween horror prop.

0:17.4

Okay, bloody water.

0:19.1

Let's make it, you know, it's not quite a pool of blood.

0:21.7

Wow, holy crap, that is disgusting.

0:25.4

Um, yes, I mean, just so you can get a picture, it's a plastic bag.

0:30.4

You can't see what's in it, but it is sort of gradually oozing out this pinkish water

0:37.3

that is filling up the tin at sitting in and it looks like we've murdered someone in

0:42.6

our about to eat them for dinner.

0:44.6

To not worry, we already did a cannibalism episode.

0:48.8

We did not eat any humans then and we certainly aren't going to do so for this episode.

0:54.2

We of course are Gastropod the podcast that looks at food through the lens of science

0:57.3

and history.

0:58.3

I'm Cynthia Graber and I'm Nicola Twilly and this episode is actually all about awful,

1:03.9

not awful, AWFUL, but awful, OFFAL.

1:09.8

In short, the bits of the animal that most of us in English speaking countries don't eat.

1:14.8

But why not?

1:15.8

Because they're gross or at least dealing with that plastic bag kind of was.

1:20.2

So are we done with the episode?

1:21.4

No, because I am certainly not eating this stuff on my own.

...

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