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The Atlas Obscura Podcast

Atlas Obscura Goes Off Assignment: To the Hiker Carrying Two Backpacks

The Atlas Obscura Podcast

SiriusXM Podcasts & Atlas Obscura

Places & Travel, Society & Culture

4.61.8K Ratings

🗓️ 2 September 2025

⏱️ 12 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

A backpacker on the Inca Trail encounters a fellow hiker who is inexplicably carrying two bags. This essay was written by Maggie Downs and edited by Aube Rey Lescure, and originally appeared in Off Assignment. Plus: Off Assignment is offering a travel writing course, called Rethinking Travel Writing. It begins September 6, and you can use code ATLAS20 for 20% off: https://www.offassignment.com/rethinking-travel-writing

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hey, everyone. So today we're collaborating with the folks from Off Assignment again. They are a great

0:10.2

nonprofit online literary magazine who describe themselves as having a penchant for journeys

0:16.3

and a fascination with strangers. It is a vibe that we at Atlas of Skira most definitely share, so it's worth going and checking

0:25.5

them out.

0:26.6

Off Assignment has this column that I particularly love.

0:31.1

That's called Letter to a Stranger.

0:33.7

And it tries to encapsulate these fleeting moments you have while traveling.

0:38.2

Today, we are going to share an essay from that column.

0:41.0

It was written by Maggie Downs, and once again, Atlas Obscira goes off assignment.

0:51.7

To the hiker carrying two backpacks.

0:55.0

I noticed you on the first day of the Inca Trail.

0:58.0

Machu Picchu was still a distant promise, and I was already bartering with my lungs.

1:04.0

The altitude had found me, as it always does, with the precision of someone who knows your weaknesses by name. My asthma, mostly

1:13.4

manageable at sea level, had turned every breath into a conscious effort from the moment I landed

1:18.8

in Kusko, Peru. My inhales came in shallow sips while each exhale was a reminder. You are

1:25.5

not built for this. I was pulling air like I owed it money and the

1:29.6

interest was steep. My pack dragged at my shoulders and my legs unconvincingly negotiated with

1:35.2

gravity. I tried to distract myself by counting steps or naming clouds, but my mind kept looping back

1:41.9

to the effort of simply being here. It was all I could do

1:45.2

to not fold in on myself, to keep placing one foot in front of the other, as if the motion alone

1:50.7

might summon oxygen. But there you were, steady and deliberate, moving as if gravity had made

1:58.7

a private agreement to go easy on you.

...

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