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Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

All along the watchtowers – with self-guided tourism where they lend you the key!

Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

The Independent

Places & Travel, Leisure, Society & Culture

3.6628 Ratings

🗓️ 14 November 2025

⏱️ 7 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Heilbronn is a small city in western Germany. It is notable for being selected as European Green Capital for 2027. But what I find rather more amazing is that there are two medieval towers that you can climb, on your own, having picked up the key from the tourist office.


Wild and wonderful: I hope you will try it too.


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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hello and welcome to today's independent travel.

0:03.0

The last week, Sun Quarter, it's Friday the 14th of November.

0:09.0

I spent Wednesday morning at Stansted Airport looking at the new Ryanair plan

0:15.0

for having digital only boarding classes.

0:19.0

In order to be able to get into departures, I had to buy tickets,

0:23.1

so I bought a £15 tickets to Bardem. The plane was early. I got through passport control

0:29.1

in no time. Got out, there are a couple of people getting into a taxi going to the station. I shared

0:33.6

with them. I then found that the train I needed for Kat was actually running three minutes late and I caught it with 10 seconds to spend. Sometimes things just work out like that. Then I went to Hyerbrook. It's a city I wanted to visit because it's the European Green Capital in 2027. I belonged to the tourist office. So I had a chat with them.

0:54.9

And they said, well, of course, you could go to the half and march come the Haven Market Tower.

1:02.1

We have the key.

1:03.8

Yes, they have the key to a proper medieval tower with an incredible number of stairs,

1:12.2

which I'm just walking down, actually.

1:14.8

And it is self-service tourism.

1:18.5

I have encountered the old church in the middle of the countryside

1:23.0

where somebody at number 17 has the key,

1:27.2

and you can go and borrow it.

1:29.6

But here, and by the way, I'm in the lovely little kind of antechamber here,

1:34.5

a couple of levels above the city where they've got beautiful old photographs.

1:39.8

Nobody else around, of course.

1:41.9

And rather than having somebody in attendance, they just think, well, why don't we just

1:48.0

people, let themselves in?

1:51.0

And so, that's what happened.

...

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