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Talk Easy with Sam Fragoso

Alison Roman’s Imperfect Approach to Cooking

Talk Easy with Sam Fragoso

Lemonada Media

Society & Culture, Film Interviews, Tv & Film

4.81.2K Ratings

🗓️ 23 April 2023

⏱️ 63 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Today, we’re joined by cook and food writer Alison Roman! We discuss her new dessert cookbook Sweet Enough (4:55), her early years as a restaurant pastry chef (12:24), and the chaotic conditions of working in the service industry (14:50). Then, Roman describes working at the experimental bakery Milk Bar in New York City (18:09), hosting cooking videos at Bon Appétit (22:40), and eventually working as a food columnist at The New York Times (25:18).

On the back-half, we talk about the criticism she faced in 2020 (32:20), the subsequent fallout from her remarks (38:52), the personal newsletter that emerged (47:12), the connective power of cooking (55:08), the time capsule of writing (58:30), and what she hopes for in the years to come (1:01:45).

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Transcript

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0:00.0

Pushkin. This is talk easy. I'm San Fr Food Writer and Cook, Allison Roman. For the past two decades, Roman has been a

0:48.5

culinary force. First, in Los Angeles, then in New York City.

0:53.6

Of course, you likely first encountered Roman's work

0:56.5

hosting cooking videos for Bonapetit,

0:59.1

many of which went viral.

1:01.1

She then collected some of the hit recipes and put them into her first cookbook, Dining

1:06.4

in, which came out back in 2017, the same year she started as a food columnist at the New York Times.

1:14.0

Through each endeavor, Roman's mission statement is to create concise, resourceful

1:18.7

recipes for people, kind of like myself, that may not always have the right ingredients, the high-tech equipment, or really the time

1:27.6

to invest in a laborious meal. I could also just say people that are new to cooking like me.

1:34.4

The approachability of her work and the humor she leads with is why many turn to her in

1:39.7

the throes of the pandemic.

1:42.2

We talk about that period later in this conversation, which naturally dovetails into a discussion

1:47.7

around the criticism she directed at Chrissy Tegan and Marie Condo in May of 2020.

1:54.0

And then of course the subsequent fallout from those remarks.

1:58.0

I know many have complicated feelings about Roman, her work, and especially these comments, we get into all of that in great detail in the middle of this talk.

2:10.0

And I think by the end you'll have a better sense of not only where those comments come from, but where she's coming from.

2:18.0

First, we begin with her newest collection of recipes entitled, Sweet Enough, A Desert Cookbook.

2:24.4

It's an ode to her early years as a restaurant pastry chef,

2:28.0

which we also discuss in this conversation,

2:30.6

along with the chaotic conditions of working in the service industry,

2:34.4

Allison's work at the milk bar under the tutelage of Chef Christina Tossi,

...

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