Here's some more Pod Aloha for you.

Pod Aloha was a podcast produced in 2018 through 2020 with a simple concept.

Early Hawaii surf pioneer Paul Strauio, interviewing his friends,

his friends whom, over the course of their lives,

pioneered now iconic waves. They developed essential surfboard designs that we all still use

today, and they created and influenced surf culture in ways that are so pervasive it would be

impossible to measure.

Eleven episodes of Pot Aloha were produced and published, but eventually they disappeared from the internet. Paul Strau and the Pot Aloha team knew the cultural significance of these conversations

and wanted to make them available to anyone interested. So they shared them with me so that I could share them with you.

The guest list was Jerry Lopez, Randy Rerick, Joey Cabell, Greg Null, Skip Fry, Mike Henson,

Peter Cole, Fred Hemings, and Sean Thompson. Today, I'm going to share the Greg Null episode with you.

Greg Null was born in 1937 in San Diego,

California, and moved to Los Angeles's South Bay, Manhattan Beach when he was six years old.

He began surfing at 10, and by the 50s, he was one of Los Angeles's best surfers.

He visited Hawaii for the first time in 1954 at the age of 17, where he By the 50s, he was one of Los Angeles' best surfers.

He visited Hawaii for the first time in 1954 at the age of 17, where he stayed for seven

months at Makaha.

He actually finished his high school degree there as well.

And during that time, he developed a pension for big waves.

Three years later, he would return and help pioneer Waimea Bay. He is also the surfer featured in one of the

most enduring surf images of all time, shot by John Severson from behind Greg Knoll, where he is

standing at the water's edge at pipeline in black and white striped trunks, with an 11-foot

...