519 - Terry Chung
Surf Splendor
David Lee Scales
4.8 • 669 Ratings
🗓️ 26 June 2024
⏱️ 84 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy!
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Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | Driftline.C.O promo code spit. Drifties are now improved with the introduction of Yamamoto |
| 0:07.2 | neoprene. Driftline posted a great little piece on their website yesterday, detailing the process |
| 0:13.2 | of how Yamamoto turns limestone into neoprene, something that I've always wondered. |
| 0:19.5 | Drifties are a neoprene lined board short, which provides |
| 0:22.5 | warmth, cushion, and perhaps most importantly, a chafe-free surf experience. And the new Yamamoto |
| 0:29.7 | neoprene makes them even more comfortable than they used to be. We will save you 15% with promo |
| 0:35.7 | code spit. You can grab them at Driftline.co. |
| 0:39.4 | They've also got ultraviolet protected rash guards and other gear. |
| 0:44.1 | And again, we'll save you 15% on all of it on Driftline.C.O promo code spit. |
| 0:51.1 | Enjoy. A seagull like me. |
| 1:21.6 | The island of Kauai has a rich surf history, but it also maintains more mythos than the larger |
| 1:28.7 | Hawaiian islands. This has always been intentionally perpetuated by surf media thinking, |
| 1:35.0 | maybe let's not exploit this one. We've clearly done that on Oahu and Maui to a lesser |
| 1:40.5 | extent, so maybe we just leave this island alone. And as someone who has family history on the island and spent some time there, I've got to say, |
| 1:48.6 | I fully agree with that. |
| 1:50.2 | Let's let those who live there enjoy it. |
| 1:52.6 | And when we come as tourists, we don't need to geotag or boast about the island's splendor. |
| 1:59.0 | But I do have a podcast, and there are people whose stories I think |
| 2:03.4 | are really valuable to share. So I wanted to at least attempt to get some of those stories down |
| 2:08.9 | for posterity, but I had very little confidence while on Kauai that I would be able to get some |
| 2:13.7 | of the podcast interviews that I wanted. Terry Chung was one of those interviews. |
| 2:18.3 | He is a deeply respected board builder and surfer, quietly living on the island, building boards |
... |
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