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Surf Splendor

410 - Wayne Rich

Surf Splendor

David Lee Scales

Sports

4.8669 Ratings

🗓️ 28 April 2022

⏱️ 92 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Wayne Rich is an International Surfboard Builder Hall of Famer and a 2x Icons of Foam winner. In this episode Wayne details his childhood in Hermosa Beach during the heyday of Noll, Bing, and Weber. He unpacks asymmetrical board design and discusses how the wipeout that nearly paralyzed him altered his perspective on surfing, shaping, and life. Enjoy!

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Transcript

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0:00.0

We're welcoming waterways travel.com into our network of partners, trusted resources, and fellow friends.

0:10.0

Waterways is a boutique surf travel agency.

0:13.0

They are the experts in surf travel.

0:16.0

Founded in 1994, Sean Murphy has personally pioneered many of the surf destinations that you've fantasized

0:23.4

about for the past 25 years. And he's also fostered and nurtured relationships, individual

0:29.4

relationships with humans in those locations, with resort owners, boat captains. He's helped

0:35.9

develop tourism infrastructure, all in an effort of ensuring

0:40.1

that you and I can get good waves, refuel on good food, comfy accommodation, have internet

0:47.1

access without a hitch. Among their travel destinations, Bali, Mentaweiss, Fiji, Central and South America, the Marshall Islands, Maldives, Mexico.

0:58.9

Waterways has been an integral part of the surf industry utilized by pros and brands for decades, and they are your trusted resource,

1:08.7

especially with the travel complications that COVID presents. The Waterways

1:13.0

team is up to the minute with all of their locations on the official protocols and what you

1:18.7

should expect. So travel intelligently and stress-free with waterwaystravel.com. Interviews with surfboard shapers have kind of become our bread and butter here. It wasn't part of the original plan, but I think that shapers have kind of emerged as some of the more interesting people in the surf space to have a chat with.

1:53.0

And as I've thought about it over the years, I attribute it to a couple of different things.

1:56.0

Firstly, the craft of board building itself is an equal blend of math or science along with art.

2:03.6

So kind of a blend of left and right brain.

2:05.6

It's constrained by hydrodynamic principles, but it's also open to interpretation and self-expression.

2:13.6

Also, surfboard shapers live in a unique space to view surf history and culture.

2:19.3

Embedded in their job is to have respect and reverence for surf history, because it really does inform their work.

2:27.3

And then of course, they've often directly worked with iconic shapers of the past.

2:32.3

They may currently directly work with influential professional surfers,

2:36.7

but paradoxically, board building doesn't pay very well. So shapers have a position of esteem and

...

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