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There are a few people, very few people in fact, who are just ubiquitous in the surf world.

People whom everyone seems to know and they know everyone,

they somehow happen to be related to all these important moments,

these historic swells.

They happen to be centered at and know all these details

and people involved with big cultural shifts in surfing.

Today's guest is one of those people.

And he's one of those people by virtue of the fact

that he was perched in a lifeguard tower at Ayukai Beach Park adjacent to the world's most

...