331 - Spoons filmmaker Wyatt Daily
Surf Splendor
David Lee Scales
4.8 • 669 Ratings
🗓️ 1 July 2020
⏱️ 81 minutes
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Summary
Wyatt Daily shares his discovery of previously unseen surf footage of Greenough, Yater, and dozens more who would spark a design revolution and indelibly change the trajectory of surfing, as documented in his latest film, "Spoons: A Santa Barbara Story". Enjoy!
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Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | What makes a surf culture? |
| 0:08.0 | There's differences in each type of area that really depend on the waves and the surfers and the boards that they ride. |
| 0:18.0 | Santa Barbara really is an important link. |
| 0:22.9 | You want to look at the accomplishments of people before us |
| 0:25.2 | and who are working off of Santa Barbara. |
| 0:27.1 | You're working off the ATER. |
| 0:28.7 | He's one of those original guys. |
| 0:31.1 | One of the original dozen guys that stepped off to do that |
| 0:34.9 | created the Surport industry. |
| 0:37.0 | And then you see this guy on a little red kneeboard carve an arc throwing spray back into the tube, then in the tube. |
| 0:45.3 | It's like a spaceman had landed. |
| 0:48.3 | It's that revolutionary. It's just like, whoa, what am I seeing? |
| 0:53.3 | For the first time we saw vertical surfing. I just like, whoa, what am I seeing? |
| 0:55.0 | The first time we saw vertical surfing, |
| 0:57.0 | I just went, I'm gonna do that standing out. |
| 1:00.0 | That's when the flight kind of goes on about this green old guy |
| 1:03.0 | that's got something. |
| 1:04.0 | He was in hell of an influence on me. |
| 1:06.0 | I'd never really thought about surfing |
| 1:08.0 | and turning back inside the barrel. |
| 1:17.6 | People were experimenting and the creative bubble was just simmering and surfing was part of that. Of course that's the way I developed the whole mystique of Channel Islands |
| 1:21.6 | was on better surfers, high performance boards. |
... |
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