Welcome. Today's episode originally aired Christmas Week, December 20th, 2015.

It's a conversation with William Finnegan just after the publishing of his memoir, Barbarian Days,

for which he'd go on to win the Pulitzer Prize for the following year.

Then President Barack Obama also listed Barbarian Days as one of his

five summer reads that year. So suffice to say, this conversation took place just before Finnegan's

life changed indelibly. I've left in my introduction to Finnegan as it originally aired four and a half

years ago. So I hope that you enjoy this show.

I'll be back at the end of the show to close us out and then back next week with a brand

new episode with Waves for Waters, John Rose.

But again, enjoy this.

This is, of course, David Scales for Surf Splendor, and I will be back at the end of the show

to sign us off.

Thanks.

Thank you. surf splendor and I will be back at the end of the show to sign us off. Thanks. Today's show is with William Finnegan.

Finnegan's been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but really also as a discoverer and an explorer.

Professionally, he's been staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, the author of five books, including his most recent Barbarian

Days, which is the main subject of our conversation here today. As a journalist, he's mainly

written about apartheid, drug wars, border conflicts, that sort of thing, but Barbarian Days

is a memoir, a far departure from his journalistic reporting.

Finnegan is a lifelong surfer, and the book details his journey through adolescence, adulthood,

and even later adulthood as a surfer, exploring the world, and how surfing fits into relationships,

work, and just one's life. So I loved the book,

...