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I live in Vancouver, Washington,

and most weekends I ride single track with my friend Tyler.

He works at a shop in Longview and always has some part he's testing, new pads, different

rotors, a chain ring with odd teeth.

We'd rid an ape canyon once in July, when the trail was busy and the air smelled

like dust and lodge smoke from someone's camp.

We wanted to see it in late October when the ash flats go quiet and the wind calms down.

The plan was simple. Park before sunrise off Forest Road 83,

peddle our hard tails up the bench cut, touch the edge of the plains of Abraham,

snack, and be back down before dark.

To be safe, we each packed a foil bivvy and a thin puffy. If something ate the day,

mechanical, cramp, worse, we'd sit a cold hour under a rock and keep moving at first light.

We weren't trying to be heroes. We wanted quiet trail, a clean climb, and the feeling that

comes from moving through a place that looks like the moon.

We reached the ape canyon trailhead in the dark. The road in was empty. Our headlights cut two

...