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The Gabby Reece Show

#290 Climbing Beyond the Wall: Emil Abrahamsson on Passion, Failure, and the Mental Game

The Gabby Reece Show

GOTOGABBY

Health & Fitness, Business, Society & Culture, Relationships, Entrepreneurship, Mental Health

4.8890 Ratings

🗓️ 14 October 2024

⏱️ 89 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Gabby sits down with Swedish professional rock climber, YouTuber, and coach, Emil Abrahamsson. Known for his unique approach to climbing and his deep connection to the sport, Emil shares the nuances of rock climbing, competition climbing, and how he navigates the mental and physical challenges of climbing projects. From his experience on the World Cup climbing circuit to his switch to full-time outdoor rock climbing, Emil offers valuable insights into the mindset of a climber, the importance of failure, and how the sport has shaped his life both on and off the rock. Introduction to Emil Abrahamsson and the World of Modern Climbing Gabby introduces Emil and provides background on his unique blend of competition climbing, outdoor climbing, and storytelling through his YouTube channel. Emil explains how modern climbing has evolved with films like Free Solo and The Alpinist, and how the sport has become more mainstream. Climbing for Problem Solvers: The Mental Game of Climbing [00:00:00 - 00:10:00] Emil explains how climbing is often compared to solving a puzzle, both mentally and physically. He talks about how his background as a "gamer kid" transitioned into a passion for climbing, as both activities share the problem-solving aspect that hooked him into the sport. Navigating Competitions and the Rock vs. Wall Debate [00:10:01 - 00:25:00] Gabby and Emil discuss the differences between competition climbing, which often includes parkour-style movements to engage audiences, and real rock climbing. Emil also talks about how competition climbing evolved, especially after its introduction to the Olympics in 2020. Balancing Passion, Performance, and Personal Climbing Goals [00:25:01 - 00:45:00] Emil talks about his decision to step away from the World Cup climbing circuit to focus more on rock climbing and storytelling through his YouTube channel. He shares how living a minimalist "dirtbag" lifestyle helped him follow his passion and embrace the freedom that comes with it. Building Mental Resilience Through Failure [00:45:01 - 01:00:00] Climbing is a sport where failure is more common than success. Emil delves into how he has built mental resilience by embracing failure as part of the process, both in climbing and life. He shares how the mental toughness he gained from climbing has influenced other areas of his life. Projecting and the Long-Term Pursuit of Goals [01:00:01 - 01:15:00] Emil discusses the concept of "projecting" in climbing—working on difficult climbs over months or even years. He shares the psychological and emotional journey of tackling long-term climbing projects and the immense satisfaction that comes when you finally complete a climb. Transitioning from Climbing Competitions to Content Creation [01:15:01 - 01:30:00] Gabby and Emil talk about how YouTube and content creation have allowed Emil to share his climbing journey with a wider audience. He reflects on how the storytelling element of his career has become just as important as the climbs themselves. Check out Emil Abrahamsson's YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson Everything Gabby Reece: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@GabbyReece Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gabbyreece/ TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@gabbyreeceofficial Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/OfficialGabrielleReece/ Gabby Reece Website - https://gabriellereece.com/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

The climbing has a lot of nuance in it.

0:02.0

And for these competitions, they're trying to make the climbs in a way that's very engaging for the audience.

0:07.0

They try to do these kind of parkour style of movements,

0:10.0

which isn't very close to what you might encounter when you're on real rock.

0:15.0

And that's quite a big debacle in the climbing industry,

0:18.0

because it creates this separation between competition climbing and rock climbing.

0:26.6

There was actually a pretty massive thing about this in the Olympics in 2020.

0:30.6

When climbing was introduced into the Olympics, they combined three different disciplines.

0:35.6

Speed climbing, lead climbing, and bouldering.

0:40.3

And it's kind of like mixing a marathon with a 100-meter track.

0:44.3

Like, oh, that looks like our sport, but that's not really our sport.

0:47.3

A lot of climbers would say yes to that question.

0:49.3

It is very different from climbing.

0:51.3

I wouldn't say it connects so well to what I do and what most climbers do.

0:56.2

In bouldering, for instance, the way that the sport is evolving is...

1:01.2

The sport of rock climbing is undergoing a renaissance.

1:04.5

Just this year, it returned to the global stage at the Olympics.

1:07.9

Meanwhile, films like Free Solo and the Alpinist have captivated audiences worldwide.

1:13.0

These stories have not only redefined what's possible on the rock, but introduces a whole

1:17.8

new generation to the pursuit of the impossible. But behind this rise, there's a story that goes

1:22.8

much deeper. 50 years ago, climbing was the domain of outcasts and rebels, born out of the counterculture

1:28.8

movement of the 1970s. Back then, men who called themselves dirtbags would piece together

...

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