4.8 • 653 Ratings
🗓️ 14 August 2019
⏱️ 56 minutes
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0:00.0 | Welcome back to Surf Splendor. We have a very special episode for you today. Two of our most |
0:18.3 | popular guests of all time, together for a one-on-one chat, |
0:21.8 | Jamie Brissick and William Finnegan. Finnegan, a Pulitzer Prize-winning author for his autobiography, |
0:28.2 | Barbarian Days, which tracks his surfing life from Oahu to Fiji to San Francisco to |
0:34.2 | Madeira, and his reluctance to reveal his surfing background and identity |
0:39.1 | to his literary colleagues once he settled into his career as a staff writer for the New Yorker. |
0:44.7 | It's a fantastic book. |
0:46.3 | I discuss it in detail with Finnegan in episode 113 of Surf Splendor. |
0:52.5 | It was about two and a half years, three years ago when he first published |
0:55.9 | the book, and I've linked to that episode in your show notes. He and Brissick actually get into |
1:01.1 | that book a little bit in today's episode. But the main reason for this conversation was to discuss |
1:07.2 | Jamie's latest book, The Dazzling Blue. Brissick is a former pro surfer turned magazine |
1:13.7 | editor, turned Fulbright scholar, and author. His previous books include, We Approach |
1:19.9 | Our Martinis with Such High Expectations and Becoming Westerly, Surfing Champion Peter |
1:26.3 | Druin's transformation into westerly Windina. |
1:29.9 | This latest book is a collection of short stories. |
1:32.9 | One is an essay about a nude surfer amid a packed lineup at Malibu. |
1:37.1 | One is a tribute to black surfers. |
1:39.2 | One is a meditation on the hand jive. |
1:41.8 | There's a conversation in here with former world champ Peter Townan. |
1:46.2 | It's all nonfiction, 58 stories in all. |
1:50.0 | And this conversation and this book was pulled together by Birdwell Beach Bridges, |
... |
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