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I've been to Hawaii in the winter twice.

I've been 10 times total, but only twice in the winter.

Seems like an unimportant distinction, numerating my visits by season. It also seems pompous to dismiss the eight Hawaiian vacations because they were

during the three quarters of the year where the Pacific Ocean swells bypass the North Shore.

Those eight trips were lovely. Time was spent with family, hills were hiked, banana bread was eaten,

luau's attended. All eight times I left tanned and fattened but hollow. The Hawaii that had

raptured my teenage attention and that had been indistinguishably tangled into my surf consciousness

was still unexperienced. Regardless of where one discovers surfing, if they have any access to surf media of any kind,

Hawaii is their siren.

Hawaii is ubiquitous in surf media.

And when any surfer references Hawaii, they are referring to the North Shore of Oahu

between the months of November through February.

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