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Perfume Room

133. Esxence 2024 Recap: Everything You Need to Know (& Smell!) (w/ Valerie March AKA @thenichesampler)

Perfume Room

Emma Vernon

Arts, Fashion & Beauty

4.9619 Ratings

🗓️ 2 April 2024

⏱️ 56 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Esxence is an annual Milan-based niche fragrance convention that boasts the title of world's largest perfumery trade show!

Content Creator Valerie March, AKA @thenichesampler — a longtime friend of the pod AND 3rd year attendee of Esxence — is in the Perfume Room this week recapping her recent experience and sharing everything from perfumes [from Esxence] we need to know, to unspoken ecosystems and structures of the expo, hot takes, trends, and key takeaways!

Plus a possible theory on the recent surge (or heightened awareness) in copy cat perfumes.

SOTD: Obvious Parfums Scoville

FRAGS MENTIONED:

Lesquendieu Feu de Bengale, Obvious Parfums Scoville, Atelier Materi Cèdre Figalia, Liquides Imaginaires L’Ile Poupre, Unique’e Luxury Zen’gi, Prada Paradoxe, Valentino Donna Born in Roma, New Notes: Latte di Cherry, Caramelo Vanilla, Latte Mimosa; Scentologia, Alfred Ritchy Nassau, Nolo; Paradis des Sens: Nirvana, Valhalla, Wonderland; Mobius: Il Nome Della Rosa, China Plum; Schiaparelli Shocking, Obvious Parfums Scoville, Manos Gerakinis Wild Tuberose, Frassai Dormir al Sol, Lesquendieu Le Parfum, Balenciaga Quadrille, JPG Scandal, Bon Parfumeur 304, Manos Gerakinis Imperial Malt, Thomas de Monaco Ultima Storia, Goldfield & Banks Island Lush, Electimuss Capua, Pernoire Amoral, Atelier des Ors Lune Feline

FOLLOW VALERIE: @thenichesampler

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Welcome to the perfume room.

0:12.6

My scent of the day today is Obvious perfume, Scoville, which feels only appropriate because at the time of this recording, neither Valerie nor I, Valerie is our guest

0:21.4

today, surprise, spoiler alert, neither Valerie nor I had smelled it and both alluded to it. And now,

0:27.3

I can finally say that I've smelled it, and it's very interesting. So I want to discuss it with you.

0:32.3

Obvious perfume generously gifted me a bottle of this new vegetal elixir, and I have to say that for me,

0:38.0

it really is the first photorealistic, like fresh red pepper scent that I've smelled,

0:42.9

where I'm like, oh, okay, fresh red pepper. It's got that distinct vegetal zest,

0:48.8

that sort of juicy, crisp, green, but red feel of when you cut into a bell pepper. That said, I believe it's

0:57.7

technically a chili pepper note listed in the pyramid, not a bell pepper one. And I do get that too.

1:03.4

I honestly get both. I just really wanted to call out bell pepper because there's something

1:07.5

so vegetal in that opening.

1:12.7

For me, this is childhood nostalgia.

1:16.7

It's my mom making a summer salad, chopping peppers on the cutting board in the kitchen on a summer day.

1:18.1

And yet, if you've seen the marketing for this, which is super cool, by the way, it's like

1:22.1

so sexy.

1:23.6

It's like, think like a 90s Calvin Klein ad, okay?

1:27.0

But then make it 70s and at dusk and in a motel. It's like, think like a 90s Calvin Klein ad, okay? But then make it 70s and at dusk and in a motel.

1:30.9

It's like a hot young couple in like white t-shirts and leather jackets and jeans and they're making out and there's a bottle of Scoville in the foreground.

1:38.5

And despite my associations with my mother, I have to say, I do get that side of it too, because it's not all vegetable

1:46.5

garden. There is another note which makes up the heart of this fragrance called Piri Piri

1:51.4

Amour, which is a material I wasn't familiar with. It's a root, which has allegedly, because I

1:57.0

haven't smelled the raw material, a sort of ambery, incendi, spicy, and slightly sweet

...

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