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Welcome back to Surf Splendor.

Thrilled to have you for today's episode with Surf Writer, Chaz Smith.

I'm sure you know Chaz's work.

We've talked about it a lot on this show,

mainly his book, Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell. But I mean, even if you haven't read that

book, I'm almost certain that you've read Chaz's work elsewhere. In Stab magazine, Australia's

Surfing Life, Surfing for, he was an editor at Living Large was his official title with surfing for

I'm not sure how long, certainly over a year, maybe a couple of years. And so you're probably

familiar with his work. And we're going to discuss a lot of that work in today's show. But before

we do, I want to just kind of follow up on last week's episode. We got some

feedback regarding the conversation that Scott Bass and I had about Mickey Dora. In his stance,

Scott found this scholarly paper that was recently written. He found it at the Surfing Heritage

and Culture Center. And there was a reference to Mickey Dora in it.

And Dora was just commenting about professionalism. And of course, Dora was anti-professional

surfing, contest surfing specifically. And so we discussed that at length. But this comment was left

on our website, surf splendorpod podcast.com from listener Dave Cross.

I assume this is not the David Cross, the comedian.

But Dave Cross said, regarding the Dora comment, Dora seems like a sociopath who is always self-serving and doesn't deem others worthy of judging him.

His statement has a kernel of truth,

...