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Proof

You're Invited: A Wine Tasting in Ancient Japan

Proof

America's Test Kitchen

Society & Culture, Food, Arts

4.41.8K Ratings

🗓️ 5 May 2022

⏱️ 47 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Who were some of the first people ever to make wine? Images of ancient people of the Caucasus or France might come to mind. But what if we told you that wine was being made in ancient Japan, around the same time--or even earlier--than it was in the Caucuses? And even before sake was being made in Japan? Reporter Hannah Kirshner investigates. You can read Hannah's article on the history of winemaking in Japan for Food & Wine, and her latest book is Water, Wood, and Wild Things: Learning Craft and Cultivation in a Japanese Mountain Town. Eric C. Rath’s latest book is Oishii: The History of Sushi. Edward Slingerland’s is Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization. See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Thanks to this season's presenting sponsor, Kohler, they design innovative sinks and faucets

0:06.1

for people who do their best work in the kitchen.

0:13.3

Our story today takes us way, way back into ancient history, but we start with writer Hannah

0:19.2

Kirschner drinking alone at her kitchen table in Japan.

0:25.2

So I've got a convenience store frozen pizza that I warmed up in the toaster oven and

0:29.6

I've opened a bottle of Japanese wine.

0:32.2

There's some amazing wine here now, by the way.

0:35.4

This one is from Domain Yui in Hokkaido, Japan's most northern island.

0:40.1

It's a lightly sparkling wine that uses an indigenous grape called Koshu.

0:45.5

The wine tastes like Welch's grape juice.

0:49.0

I guess that's because it's blended with Niagara grapes.

0:51.6

The same one's in that white grape juice, but it reminds me also of Anzu or Apricot.

0:58.1

It's really tart, so it cuts right through the grease of this processed cheese and it

1:02.2

balances the sweet tomato sauce.

1:04.2

It's a perfect fit for Yoshoku, Japanese interpretations of so-called Western food.

1:10.8

For a while now, I've been obsessed with finding out what is Japanese wine, and it's taken

1:16.8

me down some unexpected paths.

1:19.7

I wrote about the secret history of Japanese wine for food and wine magazine, but there

1:24.8

are still some questions I'm trying to answer.

1:28.1

It's a really great article, Hannah, and there's a line in the story that stood out to

1:32.2

me where you talk about how you've been working at a sake brewery in Japan, but that

1:37.3

at some point, and I quote, my thoughts turn from sake to an even more ancient beverage

...

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