meta_pixel
Tapesearch Logo
Log in
Proof

The Stew that Stirred Things Up

Proof

America's Test Kitchen

Society & Culture, Food, Arts

4.41.8K Ratings

🗓️ 28 April 2022

⏱️ 36 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Welcome to Bear Grass, North Carolina, where moonshine, tobacco, and bootlegging were once king. Today, a storied dish called chicken mull is a staple of the town's identity and for years, Bear Grass held an annual chicken mull-making contest to see who made the best mull. What happens though, when this humble dish almost tears the small, close-knit community apart? Reporter Allison Salerno reports. Interested in making chicken mull? Find our Cook's Country recipe here. See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Thanks to this season's presenting sponsor, Kohler. They design innovative sinks and faucets for people who do their best work in the kitchen.

0:13.0

Every culture has its delicious homey bowl of mush.

0:18.0

Grits, porridge, lu-gau, you name it.

0:21.0

I'm Chinese and grew up eating kanji.

0:23.0

Rice porridge with pork and a thousand-year-old eggs. It's really great on a cold day.

0:29.0

These dishes can be ugly, but tasty, and are often historic recipes that are passed down from one generation to another.

0:37.0

Keepers of these recipes are going to defend them to the death. It's mush, but you know what? It's our mush.

0:44.0

Today we have a story from reporter Alison Salerno about chicken mull. It's a communal stew popular in pockets of the American South.

0:53.0

I'd never heard of chicken mull until I moved to the South and saw it on a restaurant menu in Athens, Georgia, where I'm based. Here's how one of my sources describes it.

1:06.0

I hope you added this, but it's better than what it looked like.

1:13.0

Chicken mull is basically a grayish white mush of chicken and crushed saltine crackers, seasoned with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes.

1:21.0

Think of something between a cream of chicken and a mozzarella soup. It's often served piping hot.

1:27.0

Sometimes it's as thick as porridge and other times as thin as creamy soup with a slightest of texture. It all depends on how you make it.

1:36.0

Nobody thinks chicken mull looks appetizing, but it's a go-to comfort food for farmers and hunters and anyone else doing hard physical work.

1:44.0

Or hey, anyone wanting a tasty bowl of it.

1:48.0

So, it's a grayish white, comforting mush that people have been eating in the South for generations.

1:55.0

Great. Why you may be asking yourself, are we talking about it?

1:59.0

Well, I heard about a small town in North Carolina called Bear Grass, population of 66, that held an annual chicken mull festival.

2:09.0

I was curious. And as I looked into the event, I learned that chicken mull, this humble-looking stew, almost toward this small, close-knit community apart.

2:21.0

From America's Test Kitchen, a chicken mull cook-off controversy.

2:27.0

I'm Kevin Pang, and this is Proof. Stick around.

2:43.0

The world of food is vast. That's exactly why Augusta Scaffier School of Culinary Arts blends classic culinary methods with a sound business foundation.

...

Please login to see the full transcript.

Disclaimer: The podcast and artwork embedded on this page are from America's Test Kitchen, and are the property of its owner and not affiliated with or endorsed by Tapesearch.

Generated transcripts are the property of America's Test Kitchen and are distributed freely under the Fair Use doctrine. Transcripts generated by Tapesearch are not guaranteed to be accurate.

Copyright © Tapesearch 2026.