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Eater's Digest

The Secret Japanese Origins of Modern Fine Dining

Eater's Digest

Vox Media Podcast Network

News, Food, Comedy, Arts, News Commentary, Improv

4.4902 Ratings

🗓️ 6 December 2017

⏱️ 15 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

France is typically credited with pretty much everything in the upper echelon of dining, but how much of what we consider fine dining actually came from Japan? Eater's senior editor Meghan McCarron stops by the upsell to tell Dan about a radical shift in France's culinary scene that came right after France's top chefs went over to Japan in 1965. The Japanese Origins of Modern Fine Dining on eater.com. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to the Eater Upsell, a podcast from the Vox Media Podcast Network.

0:07.0

My name is Daniel Janine. My co-host, our editor-in-chief Amanda Clute, is off today.

0:12.0

She's at the Vox Media annual summit where Vox's super

0:15.7

elites gather at the top of Mount Olympus to talk about the company. Today on the

0:21.0

upsell we're looking at the history of modern fine dining. I was watching this

0:25.5

movie recently called Ants on a Shrimp. It follows Renee Rizepi and the Noma team as they popped up in Tokyo a couple years ago.

0:35.8

What they do when they pop up is they base their menu at least loosely on the style of

0:41.4

food that they are surrounded by and so in this case they're basing their menu on the

0:46.8

traditional style of Japanese Kaiseki and there was a moment I had where I was watching it, and I didn't really put it together at the time,

0:55.0

where I thought, oh my God, this food, this menu that they're making is almost exactly the same as the menu they serve out of their Copenhagen restaurant.

1:05.9

And then our senior editor, Megan McCarran, wrote this piece called The Japanese Origins of Modern

1:11.2

Fine Dining.

1:12.2

And it blew the lid off the whole thing for me.

1:14.4

The argument is that what we see as fine dining today actually has more of its roots in Japanese

1:20.8

food than maybe even French.

1:23.4

And it totally reshaped the way that I see fine dining.

1:26.8

So I wanted to talk to Megan a little bit more

1:29.2

about the piece.

1:30.0

But first, I think it's important to define the term fine dining, which is notoriously difficult

1:34.8

to define, but for the purposes of moving this episode along, I'm going to take a step at it.

1:41.1

Okay, here we go.

1:42.4

Fine dining is a meal that is moderately expensive.

...

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