meta_pixel
Tapesearch Logo
Log in
The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Luxury Crisis, Explained

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 31 January 2025

⏱️ 36 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast.


“This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last decade or so is running out of steam.”


In their conversation, Amed and Safian discuss the cracks in the current luxury formula,  the untapped potential in older demographics, and how brand and product innovation have the potential to revive the sector. 



Key Insights: 


  • Amed warns that the go-to strategies for luxury brands, such as over-expansion and relentless price hikes, are no longer sustainable. He highlights how the slowdown in Chinese consumer spending and a sharp drop in aspirational buyers who “gorged on luxury products during the pandemic” are exposing the cracks in this long-established playbook.


  • While the industry has long speculated on whether India might be ‘the next China,’ Amed believes real growth is finally within reach. Thanks to a flourishing middle class, improved retail infrastructure and widespread mobile internet, international brands are eyeing India’s vast consumer base with renewed interest. However, success demands culturally informed approaches: “The smart brands are going to really find the right talent, Indian local talent, and empower those leaders,” says Amed. “The Indian market is on the precipice of something really big but it’s not going to be easy.”


  • Amed acknowledges the widespread but often discreet adoption of artificial intelligence: “I think as with a lot of things AI, everybody’s using it, but not everyone’s talking about how they’re using it,” he said. However, he cautions that “to create something really, genuinely novel, interesting, disruptive, creative, and beautiful, a human has to be involved,” reminding brands that while AI can accelerate ideation, authentic creative vision remains the domain of designers themselves.


  • Amed believes the current turbulence will drive fashion leaders to rethink their strategies: “What’s exciting about a time like this is it forces companies to innovate because the market isn’t growing super fast anymore,” he said. He explains that to thrive under tougher conditions, businesses “have to take market share from someone else,” meaning it is no longer enough to repackage old ideas. Pointing to brands like Miu Miu and Brunello Cucinelli, which are still achieving significant growth, Amed sees promise in those who offer “something different and special,” rather than relying on the template approach that has dominated fashion in recent years.


Additional Resources:




Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hi, this is Imran Ahmed, founder and CEO of the Business of Fashion. Welcome to the BOF podcast. It's Friday, January 31st. This week, I'm pleased to share a recent conversation I had with Bob Safian for the Rapid Response podcast. Some of you may remember that I spoke with Bob last summer

0:23.1

about the state of the global fashion business. We had such a great response to that episode,

0:29.0

so I'm pleased to have been invited back to discuss the current state of the luxury industry.

0:34.4

We recorded this conversation in December on the day that Mathieu Blasey was confirmed

0:39.8

as Chanel's new creative director. The latest move in an unprecedented shakeup of the creative

0:45.6

and business leadership ranks at luxury fashion's biggest brands. I have never seen this volume

0:53.7

of change in the leadership of big fashion companies ever.

1:00.9

And as you pointed out, it's not just on the creative side, which is what I think the mainstream culture tends to follow.

1:08.0

It's also on the business side.

1:10.7

With this week's news that Kim Jones is leaving

1:13.2

Dior and Glenn Martins has been appointed to the creative helm of Margella, the rapid change in the

1:19.1

luxury sector seems set to continue into this year. And while Richemont, Burbri, and Lvia Mage have posted

1:25.7

better results and expected for the final quarter of 2024, there's no doubt in my mind that the industry still has a lot of work to do in order to shake off the current crisis.

1:37.3

Here's my conversation with Bob Safian on the B.OF podcast.

1:43.8

This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry

1:51.3

since the Great Recession.

1:54.1

The template business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last

2:00.4

decade or so, it's running out of

2:03.0

steam. So you have this slowdown happening in China. On top of that, you have a wider slowdown

2:11.0

amongst aspirational luxury customers who were gorging on luxury products during the pandemic.

2:22.5

And on top of all that, Bob, you and I spoke last time about the creative side of the industry,

2:24.6

just losing a little bit of its magic.

...

Please login to see the full transcript.

Disclaimer: The podcast and artwork embedded on this page are from The Business of Fashion, and are the property of its owner and not affiliated with or endorsed by Tapesearch.

Generated transcripts are the property of The Business of Fashion and are distributed freely under the Fair Use doctrine. Transcripts generated by Tapesearch are not guaranteed to be accurate.

Copyright © Tapesearch 2025.