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The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Future of Resale

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 3 December 2024

⏱️ 29 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Resale is no longer confined to thrift stores or niche platforms; it has grown into a roughly $50 billion industry in the U.S. alone, by some measures. Platforms like Poshmark, The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective have transformed the experience, making it more accessible and attractive to consumers at every price point. At the same time, brands are increasingly stepping into the space, with some launching their own programs to resell returned or used merchandise, transforming what was once a reactive practice into a strategic business opportunity. And new start-ups hope to create a new secondhand market out of brands’ returned merchandise. 


Retail editor Cat Chen and e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris join senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and executive editor Brian Baskin to unpack the evolving resale landscape. 


Key Insights: 


  •  The destigmatization of secondhand fashion is closely tied to convenience. “A large part of the equation is how easy it is to shop and sell secondhand,” explains Chen. “There are dozens of platforms that do peer-to-peer shopping options where you can buy something secondhand for, you know, at a fraction of the cost of retail where you can sell something that you've had for a while.… When resale is top of mind like that, I think the market adapts to that acceptance mentality.”


  • But establishing a leading position in the market has proven difficult, despite rapid adoption. “The learning for operators of these platforms is that there’s very little consumer loyalty in this space,” says Chen. “When I consider selling something, I’m going to look at every single platform - whichever one gives me the quickest sale, the easiest sale, and the most money.” This dynamic has created a fiercely competitive landscape, with platforms racing to attract sellers by offering the best incentives.  


  • Bazar is taking a different approach to resale, stocking its marketplace with returned, goods brands would struggle to restock without refurbishment, including some fast fashion. “Bazar doesn’t go through the trouble of necessarily fixing items. It’s kind of listed as is, and customers get a ‘what you see is what you get’ experience,” says Morris. Additionally, Bazar allows fast fashion brands like Cider to offload inventory, which many traditional resale platforms avoid. “There is a level of transparency there which is supposed to be a part of the proposition of sustainability and a part of the proposition of resale as well.”


  • As the industry develops, Morris envisions brands taking more ownership of resale, as platforms like Revive are already helping brands create their own resale programs to handle returned merchandise. Such efforts could turn resale into a sustainable, profitable venture, making it a key part of brand operations. “If resale can prove that it is an avenue for [brands] to achieve profitability … I can see it becoming a bigger priority brands which will make the shopping experience all the better for consumers."



Additional Resources:




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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to the debrief from the Business of Fashion, where each week we delve into our most popular BOF professional stories with the correspondents who created them. I'm executive editor Brian Baskin. And I'm senior correspondent, Sheena Butler Young.

0:21.2

And today we are talking all things resale.

0:24.3

We are a long way from the days when resale meant hunting through thrift shops.

0:28.8

Today, secondhand clothing is, depending on how you measure it, a $50 billion business in the U.S. alone.

0:36.1

But it feels like sometime in the last year or two,

0:38.8

we crossed a threshold where a critical mass of consumers no longer distinguish between new

0:43.6

and used. It's gone from being a marketing gimmick to a real business for many brands and

0:49.1

independent platforms. I even had someone who works with a lot of luxury brands tell me recently that one reason

0:55.0

they've been so confident about raising prices is they know a lot of their customers are

0:59.4

thinking about selling that $5,000 handbag even as they're buying it.

1:03.7

We're going to talk to retail editor Kat Chen about how we got here and just how big resale

1:09.0

can get.

1:09.5

And later, we'll talk to e-commerce correspondent

1:12.1

Malik Morris about a different kind of resale that is changing how retailers handle your returns.

1:17.4

First off, thank you for joining us, Kat. Thanks for having me, guys. Excited to be here again.

1:22.7

So we're going to get into all the big players in this category and what's going on. But first, I

1:26.8

wanted to ask you,

1:27.7

what is your personal relationship with resale? Do you shop secondhand?

1:31.7

Yeah, absolutely. I would consider myself a pretty big secondhand shopper. I've been shopping

1:37.3

secondhand for the past 15 years. When I was in high school, you know, my friends and I were

1:42.6

shopping at the Salvation Army,

1:44.6

and this was that hipster Tumblr era when old stuff was cool and ironic.

...

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