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The Food Programme

The Crayfish Question

The Food Programme

BBC

Arts, Food

4.4943 Ratings

🗓️ 22 August 2025

⏱️ 42 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

It’s been nearly 50 years since invasive American Signal Crayfish were introduced to the UK, and we still haven’t figured out how to get rid of them. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall joins Sheila Dillon to meet a man who believes the way to control their spread is to get more people eating them — but not everyone’s convinced. These crustaceans are so invasive that ecologists worry encouraging consumption could lead to further spread. Meanwhile, in parts of the Southern US, crayfish are a beloved delicacy. Sheila heads to a crayfish boil in London to see how that tradition is being recreated here.

Presented by Sheila Dillon Produced by Natalie Donovan for BBC Audio in Bristol

Transcript

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0:00.0

I'm Rory Stewart and I grew up wanting to be a hero and I'm still fascinated by the ideas of heroism.

0:09.0

In my new series, I'm taking in the long sweep of history from Achilles to Zelensky and asking, what is a hero?

0:16.0

Simply doing your job, being a decent human being.

0:20.0

A true hero is someone who just kind of shines by

0:23.1

their own light and that light is to be recognised by others. The long history of heroism

0:27.8

with me, Rory Stewart. Listen on BBC Sounds. BBC Sounds, music, radio, podcasts. Hello, I'm Sheila Dillon.

0:38.8

It's wildness, fresh waters and invasive shellfish, millions of them.

0:44.6

Shellfish that are also delicious.

0:47.5

So why shouldn't we just eat them?

0:50.0

Eat them to extinction, as my colleague Dan Saladino might say.

0:55.0

That's the issue in this edition of the food program.

1:02.4

No one will be setting off fireworks or hiring jazz bands,

1:10.3

but next year marks 50 years since a certain crustacean

1:14.4

first invaded UK waters, the American signal crayfish.

1:19.7

Since then, there's been no stopping them,

1:22.0

decimating our fish and their native white-clad cousins,

1:26.2

as well as undermining riverbanks and exacerbating flooding.

1:30.4

You see lots of little three-inch holes that everybody sort of thinks, oh, they're rat holes.

1:34.6

But they're not, they're crayfish burrows, and they go back about two to three feet,

1:37.7

and then that collapses and goes into the river.

1:40.3

We'll hear more from Andrew Leach by the River Kennet later.

1:43.9

Right now I'm faced by a lot, really a lot of them,

...

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