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Welcome to Dressed, the history of fashion, a podcast that explores the who, what,

when, of why we wear. We are fashion historians and your hosts, Cassidy Zachary,

and April Callahan. Dressed listeners, midriff tops, flannel shirts,

chokers, and platform shoes, oh my, we are back with part two of our two part episode

about fashion in the 1990s. And we are joined all week by Colleen Hill, who is a curator

of costume accessories at the museum at FIT. And her book, Fashion in the 90s, is the exhibition

catalog for a forthcoming exhibition at the museum. We don't know exactly when this is going to

open yet, but TBD. Yes, and earlier this week, the two of you, April discussed how grunge subculture

style worked its way onto high fashion runways. And also how luxury goods of the 90s were often

intentionally distressed and broken down by the deconstructionists of the era. And today,

we turn our attention to that quote unquote other 90s big thing minimalism. So without further ado,

welcome back Colleen. So, you know, perhaps in direct response to grunge and also deconstructionism,

we also see this other polar opposite again of the ever-newed interest in luxury

beginning in the mid 1990s. So how did this unfold in my estimation, the hands of two of the greatest

designers of this period, Tom Ford and John Galliano? And I just, yes, Galliano is problematic in

certain arenas, but from a design standpoint, like how did luxury play out in their collections?

Sure. Well, I attribute much of the return to luxury and the revival of numerous established

fashion houses to Tom Ford. He'd actually been hired at Gucci in 1990, I believe, but it wasn't

until the mid decade. He kind of seems to come out of nowhere and he's presenting collections that

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