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Welcome to the Guardian Long Read, showcasing the best long-form journalism,

covering culture, politics and new thinking. For the text version of this and all our long

reads, go to thegardian.com forward slash long read.

The tiny plain banked and headed north.

It was a sunny morning in 2015 and the pilot and I were flying out of a Johannesburg airfield

towards the Zimbabwe border. Having lived in South Africa for six years,

I wanted to see from the air a problem I had often thought about, a problem proposed by the end

of apartheid. When black people had to enter into and possess a world that white people believed

they had created. Two decades earlier, in 1994, Nelson Mandela had been inaugurated as the

country's first black president. He'd gripped the hand of F.W. DeClerk, its last white president,

and said in Afrikaans, his former jailers language, what is verbe?

What is past is past. These words had expressed the hope for the country's transition,

that with the right attitudes, repentance from white people and forgiveness from people of color,

...