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Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio

Moonshine Cake and Cantaloupe Cream Pie: The Secrets of Southern Baking

Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Radio

Milk Street Radio

Food, Arts

4.42.8K Ratings

🗓️ 20 June 2025

⏱️ 57 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Author Anne Byrn scoured the South, uncovering the stories behind the region’s best bakes. She found lane cakes in Georgia, chess pies in North Carolina and a shocking twist on chocolate cake in Arkansas. Plus, Kim Severson offers a timely report on the MAHA organic food movement; we whip up an Almond and Rum Tres Leches Cake; and Cheryl Day returns to take your baking questions.

Get the recipe for Almond and Rum Tres Leches Cake here.

Listen to Milk Street Radio on: Apple Podcasts | Spotify

Transcript

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0:00.0

This is Mill Street Radio from PRX, and I'm your host, Christopher Kimball.

0:08.7

Cookbook author Ann Byrne may have written the definitive history of Southern baking.

0:14.0

Today, we're looking back on its best stories, including the early explosive days of baking powder.

0:19.9

People were having gobs of it to recipes because they

0:22.9

didn't know really what to do with it. And there were all kinds of these recipe pamphlets coming

0:27.1

out from the baking powder companies telling you, oh, well, you know, add a quarter cup to your cake.

0:32.3

You know, it's going to rise. The unexpected histories behind your favorite southern desserts that's coming up later in the show.

0:40.5

But first, it's time to answer your baking questions with our special guest host, Cheryl Day.

0:46.5

Cheryl is the author of Cheryl Day's treasury of Southern baking.

0:51.3

So, Cheryl, I was in Paris recently. I came across this technique that just blew me away.

0:58.4

And I was talking to a chef. He makes this Paris flon, which is essentially a like four or five

1:05.3

inch deep custard. It's basically pastry cream in a pot brbrise shell and nothing on the top. So he doesn't

1:15.2

pre-bake it. And here's what he does. This really was interesting. He takes a silt pat,

1:20.0

you know, for baking cookies. But this version of it, I guess, is got wire mesh in the bottom.

1:26.0

Oh, wow. You can see through it.

1:28.1

So it's wire mesh.

1:29.4

And he puts around a circle, it's like a cake pan with no bottom.

1:33.7

He puts that on the sill pat and puts the sill pat on a cooling rack.

1:38.9

Okay.

1:39.9

So there's nothing in between.

1:42.1

There's no baking sheet.

1:43.1

There's no bottom.

...

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