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The Business of Fashion Podcast

LOVE Magazine’s Editors on the Fashion Magazine’s New Role in Culture

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 30 July 2020

⏱️ 52 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Ben Cobb and Pierre A. M’Pelé discuss the creative process behind LOVE’s latest two-volume issue and how they responded to the unprecedented events of the last six months.

 


LONDON, United Kingdom — What is the role of a fashion magazine at this moment in time? For Ben Cobb, editor-in-chief, men’s, of LOVE Magazine, and Pierre A. M’Pelé, the title’s senior editor, community and collaboration is key. Launching August 4, the latest iteration of the biannual magazine is two volumes of hardback books, titled “LOVE ‘Diaries 3 March - 4 July’ Volumes 1 and 2” featuring a total of four covers. “I hesitate to even call it a magazine,” said BoF Editor-at-Large Tim Blanks in conversation with Cobb and M’Pelé. “[It’s] a remarkable time capsule of this remarkable time.”

  • Despite its triumphant final form, the process behind creating the magazine has not been without its challenges. “There were three senior members very ill with Covid,” said Cobb, describing how the team stepped in to carry out work depending on how healthy they were feeling each day, ahead of M’Pelé joining the team in late June. “We were exhausted and suffering from fatigue, [but] Pierre came in with so much energy.” As a highly collaborative process, it also dissolved the traditional hierarchy of the masthead — “a new way of putting together a magazine,” said Blanks, reminiscent of “the idealistic height of the ’60s.”
  • Producing a fashion magazine — particularly one as extensive as LOVE’s two-tome edition — typically takes a long period of planning and forethought, but the seismic and fast-developing events of the last six months required quickfire changes. The Black Lives Matter protests of May and June “changed the course of action,” said M’Pelé, who himself attended protests in Paris. “The team was very reactive because it was a matter of ‘let’s speak now, let’s take a stance now and let’s be clear of our intentions now...’ If we hadn’t added these Black Lives Matter and systemic racism conversations into the magazine, it would have been too late.” In the wake of the murder of George Floyd, M’Pelé’s “manifesto,” a portable pamphlet-like insert in the book, “became a lot more about new voices, bringing people of colour into the picture,” he said. “I want someone to be able to take it out and give it to their racist aunt.”
  • This period has also called into question the formats and fundamental role that fashion magazines assume. “Editorial perspective…[typically] crystallises a moment and it’s about dictating what that moment means,” said Cobb. “I think what’s been really incredible and transformative about this is that … that dynamic has been completely reversed and the moment tells you what it needs to be.” As for what the next issue of LOVE will look like, “Who knows?” said Cobb. “Maybe a magazine can just be a film.”

 Related Articles: Katie Grand Names Ben Cobb Co-Editor-in-Chief of LOVE For Fashion Magazines, It's Crunch Time How to Make a Magazine Under Lockdown



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Transcript

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0:00.0

That editorial perspective, editorial eye, is what crystallises a moment and it's about dictating what that moment means.

0:12.0

People are used to the notion that fashion magazines take a long time to do, and there's a lead time, you know, whatever.

0:19.0

To have the essence of the protests already in the book

0:22.6

feels to me like quite a feat of publishing.

0:26.6

There are so many people doing great things out there

0:28.6

that don't necessarily have the platform,

0:30.6

and that's one of the reasons we did the manifesto, for example,

0:33.6

is to give platforms to you people that might not have a platform in the past. I wanted people

0:39.0

who would read it and grab it, feel that they were in a space where they could be interested

0:44.2

by so many different issues, but that kind of still relate to the common condition of black

0:50.7

creatives in fashion.

1:01.9

Hi, this is Imran Ahmed founder and CEO of the business of fashion, and welcome to the BOF podcast.

1:08.8

Ever since the coronavirus lockdowns put the fashion industry on hold, people have been asking a lot of questions about what fashion will look like when all of this is over.

1:12.6

One area that's been particularly hard hit is fashion magazines.

1:16.7

What is the role of a fashion magazine in the midst of a global pandemic?

1:21.2

This week on Bof Live, our editor-at-large Tim Blank sat down with Ben Kopp and Pierre M. Pele of Love magazine to discuss the

1:29.4

creative process behind Love's latest two-volume issue, not really a magazine, not a book, but

1:36.2

something different altogether. Here's Tim Blanks with Ben Cobb and Pierre Ampelle inside fashion.

1:53.0

Hello, welcome to B.O.F. Live. Today we are talking to Ben Cobb and Pierre M. Plei, who are co-editors of

2:00.0

the astonishing new issue of Love magazine.

2:04.6

I hesitate to even call it a magazine.

2:06.6

It is volume one and volume two of hard-covered,

...

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