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I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

IDTT Wine 492: Jean-Emmanuel Simond Does Not Like Your White Wine

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

Levi Dalton, Spain, Terroir, Napa Valley, Winemaker, Red Wine, Food, Burgundy, Personal Journals, Restaurant, Australia, Sommelier, Journalist, Portugal, Vineyard, Piemonte, Grape, Interview, Arts, Society & Culture, White Wine, Loire Valley, Champagne, Sicilia, Austria, Tuscany, Conversation, Hobbies, Wine Business, Leisure, Bordeaux, Sonoma, Feedpodcast, Wine, Germany, Author

4.81K Ratings

🗓️ 1 July 2023

⏱️ 93 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Jean-Emmanuel Simond is a writer and wine critic for "La Revue du vin de France", covering the Côte de Nuits of Burgundy and Alsace. He is also a co-owner of wine importer Oenotropie. He is based in Paris, France.


Jean-Emmanuel describes a chance introduction to fine, old wine and the subsequent revelation he had about wine. He discusses a key period for his wine experience that happened while he was living in New York City in the late 1990s, where he met Joe Dressner. He explains that in his role selling bottles from Natural wine pioneers to restaurants and wine shops in Manhattan that he learned about the wine philosophy and outlook of Joe Dressner and the vigneron he represented, at a time when there were few Natural wine producers. Jean-Emmanuel talks about tasting little known wines from the Loire Valley and the south of France, and how he recognized those as something artisanal and local, and wines with a sense of place.


Jean-Emmanuel next describes his transition back to France, and then to writing and reviewing wine for "La Revue du vin de France" magazine, something he has done since 2005. He emphasizes that he is drawn to the side of wine writing that is about making discoveries, while covering diverse regions like the Côte de Nuits and Alsace. He contrasts the positions of Burgundy and Alsace in the market, with strong demand following the wines of Burgundy, but with Alsace being perceived as stylistically out of fashion, despite the emphasis on organic and Biodynamic farming there. Jean-Emmanuel goes on to describe a global fashion for lean, crisp white wines drunk too young, a trend which he finds frustrating. He cites a lack of aged white wine bottles on restaurant wine lists and suggests that white wine producers should hold back bottles longer in their own cellars. He then goes on to suggest that a fashion for underripe white wines from across many different wine regions has resulted in white wines that have been made in a way that emphasizes acidity over ageability, arguing that white wines from riper vintages will age better.


Jean-Emmanuel strongly believes that global warming has helped improve the quality of Pinot Noir grapes for red Burgundy today, and he discusses this while comparing and contrasting the red Burgundy vintages of 2019, 2020, and 2021. He addresses the role of chaptalization in Burgundy today, and also raises that point that with climate change and riper grapes, the growers are finding that they cannot work in the same way that they used to. He postulates that more acidity in wines can result from adjusting work in the vineyards. He also covers current trends for red Burgundy in whole cluster use and for the level of extraction. He touches on how the timing of malolactic conversion can affect the build of a red Burgundy. He also describes how adjustments to canopy and trellising in the vineyards may affect wine quality and texture. He further touches on the importance of lees contact for red Burgundy, and how Burgundians are moving away from pumping grapes and juice, and towards an increased interest in bottling barrel by barrel. He talks about learning about wine by tasting in Burgundy cellars, and what that has been like for him. He also postulates more unpredictability and small yields in Burgundy in the future, as a result of further climate change.


Jean-Emmanuel highlights the quality and value of Pinot Noir from Alsace today, suggesting that this is not always noticed because of the image of the region for white wines. He covers some of the different styles of Pinot Noir being made in Alsace today, and talks about why consumers should buy them.


He also discusses his import business, which imports Italian wines into France for French consumers.


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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

I'm Levy Dalton, and this is all drink to that, where we get behind the scenes of the wine business.

0:08.0

John Emanuel Simon, a French wine journalist, and also a wine importer into France, as well as a consultant in the New York Market. Hello, sir. How are you? Hello. I'm very well. Thank you. Thanks for advising me.

0:37.0

It's very nice to see you. So you, like myself, grew up in the 1970s. You were born in 71. Absolutely. A good vintage, I think. But your family wasn't so much into wine, at least your parents.

0:50.0

Not at all. My parents had not much interest for wine. My father was barely drinking one or two glasses of Bordeaux on Sunday for lunch, but I guess, yeah, that's about it. So my interest for wine didn't come from my parents' side.

1:09.0

And you grew up in France. I was born in Paris. My family was living in Paris. But part of my family is originated from the Alps, from Savoir. This little beautiful town called Cheminix, which is just next to the Bumblond, the Marvellous Mountains scenery. And it was Marvellous to be able to spend holidays there in summer and winter. It's a place I really love. What was your childhood like?

1:38.0

What was it like? We traveled quite a lot with my parents. They took me to Africa. They took me to a great trip when I was like eight or nine years old. But I vividly remember, we visited all the national parks in the US, going to Wyoming, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone. This was incredible for me.

2:05.0

Yeah, unusual for our fans.

2:07.0

Yeah, but my parents always loved hiking and visiting nature and seeing some wild animals. It's something that I really enjoyed today.

2:23.0

What was the career of your parents? What did they do for profession?

2:28.0

My mother was originally a journalist, and then she specialized in graphology. Studying the writing at that time, it was quite fashionable to ask graphologist to study written letters for deciding whether the personality would fit for a specific job.

2:54.0

Today, it's not much used anymore, but I guess in the 80s and 90s, it was still pretty common.

3:02.0

I think I would be hesitant to show my mother my handwriting from school if I had a mom like that.

3:08.0

Sure, sure. I tried to ask her a few times about some friends writing or whatever, but she never wanted to give me any idea about that.

3:17.0

And my dad was not really a banker, but he was one of the first in France during the 70s and 80s to do some merger on acquisitions.

3:29.0

In those years, it wasn't something so common also.

3:33.0

He started that for a very small boutique operation. He made a good living. We had this little house near Paris and this place in Normandy also responded off time.

3:49.0

So I've always been surrounded by gardens and animals. It was a nice, quite childhood, I would say.

3:59.0

I haven't spoken to a lot of people who grew up in France in the 80s. I've spoken to people who grew up in the 60s and 70s.

4:07.0

So the 80s, how did that read for you as a kid, like what was happening in your life?

4:13.0

What was I'm thinking in my lab? As a teenager, I grew up listening to a lot of American music.

4:21.0

For instance, I never listened to rock music, so when I started listening to music as a teenager, my favorites were the likes of James Brown, Réta Franklin, Prince, all these soul disco music.

4:40.0

That's what I'm still listening to today. I'm completely old-fashioned.

...

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