4.8 • 1K Ratings
🗓️ 6 June 2021
⏱️ 60 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Dominik Sona is the General Manager of the Koehler-Ruprecht winery, which is located in the Pfalz region of Germany.
Dominik speaks about his family history in the Pfalz and his winemaking work early in his career for a winery, Villa Wolf, in that area of Germany. He also discusses the situation for the Koehler-Ruprecht winery in 2010, when he began to work at that winery. He references the history of the Koehler-Ruprecht winery, and notes that the previous proprietor, Bernd Philippi, was a pioneer in the production of dry Riesling wines from the Pfalz.
Dominik speaks about the winemaking protocol for wines at Koehler-Ruprecht, and contrasts that with the winemaking at Villa Wolf. He also gives details about the handling of grapes in the winery, and the explains how the wines are aged at Koehler-Ruprecht prior to bottling. He discusses the exit of the winery from the VDP organization of German wineries in 2014, and touches on what led to the decision to leave the VDP. He also stresses what is important for the philosophy of winemaking at Koehler-Ruprecht: a focus on dry Riesling, fermented with native yeasts, aged in old wood barrels for a long period on the lees, and given a limited dose of sulphur.
Dominik refers to method of selection at Koehler-Ruprecht, and notes that choices regarding bottlings, such as determining which lots go into Kabinett Trocken versus Spatlese or Auslese Trocken, are decisions made on tasting the wines, not on analytical numbers or areas of the vineyard. He explains what he is looking for on the palate when he makes those choices, and also describes the aromatics and food pairing potential of those wines. He also speaks about the ageability of the wines, and how they might evolve in bottle. And he gives some insight into the R and RR wines, the rare wines that Koehler-Ruprecht makes in certain years. In relation to these topics, Dominik also discusses climate change, and the likelihood that the vintages in these days tend towards more ripeness than the vintages in the past.
The Saumagen is the most famous vineyard owned by Koehler-Ruprecht, and where the most prestigious wines of the winery emerge from. Dominik discusses the characteristics of that vineyard, including the exposure, the microclimate, and the presence of limestone there. He also discusses what wines from the Saumagen display that other wines of the winery might not. And he makes the connection between the flavors of the Saumagen Riesling wines and what foods they may pair well with.
Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is also discussed, in addition to Riesling. Dominik discusses the evolution of Spätburgunder winemaking in the Pfalz, and talks about what has changed and why. He also notes the move to new types of vine material for Spätburgunder, and talks about what the ramifications of that change may be.
This interview represents an excellent opportunity to learn about the specifics of winemaking at a winery that follows its own path, and about which there is somewhat little information generally available. At the same time, the episode provides a large amount of context for understanding some of the changes in German winemaking in general.
This episode also features commentary from:
Florian Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer
Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach-Oster
Egon Müller IV, Weingut Egon Müller-Scharzhof and Château Bela
Katharina Prüm, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm
Klaus-Peter Keller, Weingut Keller
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0:00.0 | I'll drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the beverage business. |
0:05.0 | I'm Levy Dalton. |
0:06.0 | I'm Erin Scala. |
0:07.0 | And here's our show today. |
0:25.0 | Dominic Sona has managed Cola Rupert since 2010, and under his watch that winery left |
0:32.0 | the grower association known as the VDP in 2014. |
0:37.8 | Sona discusses the reasons for that decision in the interview coming up, but he doesn't |
0:42.4 | touch on what it can mean to be a part of the VDP. |
0:46.2 | And for a sense of that, it is worth recalling what Florian Lauer of Peter Lauer revealed |
0:52.2 | about the long process of joining the VDP chapter in the Tsar. |
0:57.2 | Yeah, I must say the membership in the VDP is a hot and very, very long process to get |
1:07.2 | a member of the VDP, at least the VDP Mosul Zahuvah is really a hot nut. |
1:17.2 | That took nearly six, seven years for them to come to a result. |
1:26.2 | They lost your paperwork, maybe. |
1:29.2 | I hope so. |
1:32.2 | The point is that they think a lot about their new members. |
1:37.2 | They observe you, they talk to you, they come to you, making tasting, seeing who is that |
1:45.2 | person who likes to join us, and also a new membership is always something new for the |
1:50.2 | club. |
1:51.2 | And it's something new for the wine estate, also the wine estate has to be able to modify |
1:57.2 | and to adapt his production portfolio to the VDP system. |
2:01.2 | Let's say also to these VDP prices, it's not secret that a lot of VDP members have some |
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