4.8 • 1K Ratings
🗓️ 4 February 2021
⏱️ 96 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Lorenzo Accomasso is a vintner in the La Morra area of Italy's Piemonte region. He has been releasing Barolo and other wines under the Accomasso label for several decades.
Lorenzo discusses the increased interest in Barolo and in the wines of the Piemonte that has occurred over the last couple of decades, as well as the increased planting of vineyards in La Morra. Lorenzo talks about helping his parents at the winery in the post-World War II years. He contrasts the current situation for the wines with the period of the 1960s, when people were leaving the countryside to find jobs in factories. He also recalls the difficult growing conditions of the 1970s, and the changes in attitude towards topics like green harvesting and fruit sorting that have occurred over time.
Lorenzo is clear about his winemaking stance as a Traditional producer, and touches on some of the techniques that separate his winemaking from those who operate in a Modern style. He talks about the changes in popularity for Modern and Traditional wines from the Piemonte, and how those categories have been perceived in the market over time. He also touches on the difficulty of changing one's winemaking style once it has been set. Vineyard work is discussed, and Lorenzo makes a distinction between his different Barolo vineyards (Rocche, Rocchette, and Le Mie Vigne). He contrasts the different attributes of those vineyard sites.
Vintage evaluations are given for many years, stretching back to the 1970s. Lorenzo gives his frank opinions of many vintages, and at times gives his thoughts on ageability as well. Then he discusses some of the difficulties he has experienced when making wines from the Dolcetto grape variety, in contrast to Nebbiolo.
This is a rare opportunity to hear from a Piemonte vintner who lived through World War II, and with that in mind, this episode begins with a history of Italy and of the Piemonte in the later years of that war and after. That was a time when fighting between Fascists and Partisans took a huge human toll, with many deaths. The capsule history then transitions into a discussion of the changes the Piemonte experienced in the second half of the 20th century, as emigration and industrialization changed the environment for wine production. Italian cultural commentators Mario Soldati and Luigi Veronelli are also talked about, as are the changes in winemaking that increasingly began to take hold in the late 1970s and into the 2000s. Those changes gave rise to different winemaking camps in the Piemonte, which are discussed. Eventually the market for the Piemonte wines begins to change, and at the same time there arrives a belated realization that climate change has altered the realities for vine growing in the Piemonte.
This episode also features commentary from:
Martina Barosio, formerly of Scarpa
Nicoletta Bocca, San Fereolo
Beppe Colla (translated by Federica Colla), the ex-owner of Prunotto
Luca Currado, Vietti
Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone, Umberto Fracassi
Angelo Gaja, Gaja
Gaia Gaja, Gaja
Maria Teresa Mascarello, Cantina Bartolo Mascarello
Danilo Nada, Nada Fiorenzo
Giacomo Oddero (translated by Isabella Oddero), Poderi Oddero
Federico Scarzello, Scarzello
Aldo Vaira (translated by Giuseppe Vaira), G.D. Vajra
Aldo Vacca, Produttori del Barbaresco
Michael Garner, co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses
Victor Hazan, author of Italian Wine
Thank You to...
Robert Lateiner and Gregory Dal Piaz for the use of the recording of Lorenzo Accomasso
Carlotta Rinaldi and Giuseppe Vaira for their translation work
Chris Thile for voiceover
Bodhisattwa for the whistling of "Bella Ciao"
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0:00.0 | I'm Levy Dalton, and this is all drink to that, where we get behind the scenes of the wine business. |
0:08.0 | Le Mendoza Akamaso began helping his family in their vineyards in Lamora in the 1940s and still tends to his small parcels of vines there today. |
0:34.0 | While most of the famous names of his generation have already passed on. Bruno Jacosa, Bepecola, Bartolo Mascarello, Giovanni Contrano, these people have left us. |
0:46.0 | But Akamaso isn't just still alive, he's still making wine every year, and Akamaso describes himself as a member of the extreme wing of traditional burrolo producers, once telling me that he had never changed anything. |
1:01.0 | He opts for long-skinned macerations for nebula, large Slovonian oak boaty for aging burrolo, and prefers a long maturation before bottling. |
1:10.0 | He typically releases wines into the market later than his neighbors, and some of his wines still see an elevage in glass demi-john in keeping with the old custom of the region. |
1:23.0 | Well, before the pandemic, some friends and I sat with Lorenzo Akamaso in the humble room where he conducts tastings in his home, the meeting was recorded and you will hear it coming up. |
1:34.0 | It was a visit, not an interview, and so it would be helpful to have some context for what Akamaso says on that tape with an understanding of the events that have happened during his life. |
1:46.0 | And so for that, we should head down to Abrutso. Specifically to the Grand Saso, the mountain in the Apennines with one of the highest peaks of Italy, and which in September 1943 served as the site of the prison of the fascist Benito Mussolini. |
2:03.0 | World War II had, by this point, gone very badly for Italy, and in July 1943, the Allies had both bombed Rome and invaded Sicily. |
2:14.0 | In response, the King of Italy, Vittorio a Manuel III, the person who had originally named Mussolini the Prime Minister in 1922, stripped Mussolini of his powers in 1943 and had him arrested. |
2:29.0 | In August of 1943, Allied soldiers took control of Sicily and then started moving up the Italian peninsula, but the German infantry had already begun marching into Italy back in June when Mussolini had requested German reinforcements. |
2:44.0 | With both Allied and German troops already inside his country, the King of Italy, who had been on the Allied side during World War I, declared an armistice with the Allied powers on September 8 of 1943, ending the Italian pact with Germany and the Axis. |
3:04.0 | Hitler reacted quickly to this news. |
3:07.0 | The next day, Nazi soldiers moved on Rome, prompting the King to flee that city for the south of Italy where the Allies were located at that time. |
3:17.0 | The Germans began taking Italian troops prisoner, ultimately disarming close to a million Italian soldiers and sending many to internment camps. |
3:26.0 | Then, on September 12, German SS troopers landed gliders on the Grand Sosso Mountain and moved on the isolated hotel where 200 Italian guards were holding Mussolini prisoner. |
3:39.0 | The Germans convinced the Italians to stand down without firing a shot and Bonito Mussolini, who had become the first fascist leader in Europe with his rise to power in the 1920s, was released. |
3:52.0 | The Nazis would promptly install Mussolini as the head of their fascist puppet state in the north of Italy, the Italian Social Republic. |
4:00.0 | The King of Italy, for his part, would declare war on Germany in October 1943 and this meant that the Italian people were in multiple wars on their territory simultaneously, a war of occupation and a civil war in addition to what at times had the feeling of a class war. |
4:20.0 | Without a standing army any longer, the Italian resistance to the German occupation was waged as guerilla warfare by partisans who hid in the mountains or on abandoned farms, often with the support of the surrounding civilian population. |
4:35.0 | The partisans emerged from different backgrounds and espoused different political ideologies with monarchists, socialists and communists all involved in the resistance. |
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