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Hot Takes & Deep Dives

History of Gay Restaurants (Florent, Julius, Diners) (w/ Erik Piepenburg)

Hot Takes & Deep Dives

Jess Rothschild

Rhony, Tv & Film, Andycohen, Rhobh, Realhousewives, Bravotv, Vpr, Rhoc, Bravo, Popculture, Rhop, Pumprules, Bethennyfrankel, Lgbtculture, Rhod, Realhousewivesofnyc, Rhoa, Vanderpumprules

4.71.4K Ratings

🗓️ 25 August 2025

⏱️ 50 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Jess is joined by DINING OUT author & NYT writer Erik Piepenburg to explore the role of gay restaurants & diners in America. Topics — first restaurant to welcome trans patrons in 1950s Green Bay, WI, The Melrose (Chicago), NYC's Florent, Cafeteria, Cowgirl Hall of Fame and Julius'. Plus — Bloodroot (Bridgeport, CT), The Torch Club (Ohio), Gallus (Atlanta), Annie’s Steakhouse (DC), and 3-course meals at the Continental Baths in NYC. 


⭐ IG: @jessxnyc | @erikp57


⭐ Jess' docu-series on the rise & fall of SoulCycle — Cult of Body & Soul


⭐ Jess' docu-series on the history, mystique & lore of Fire Island — Finding Fire Island

 

Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome back to hot takes and deep dives, and I am here with the author of Dining Out,

0:20.4

first dates, defiant nights, and Disco Fries at America's Gay Restaurants.

0:26.3

I'm here with Eric Pippenberg.

0:28.6

You've written for the L.A. Times, the New York Times.

0:31.3

I mean, would you call this a memoir or a travelogue?

0:35.2

Yeah, this is my first book, and it is definitely a memoir, there's reportage, it's essay,

0:42.9

its first person, it's just pure journalism.

0:46.1

I wouldn't say it's like a guidebook necessarily, but for people interested in visiting

0:51.3

gay restaurants that are open, there's a ton of them in the book that are still open, and I really recommend checking out. So the origin story behind the book,

0:59.8

you wrote this piece in 2021 for the Times titled Still Here, It's Still Queer, the Gay Restaurant

1:06.5

Endors. Now, the lore of this article is that you were dismayed by the closing of your

1:14.1

beloved Chicago favorite restaurant, the Melrose, and you were just setting out to kind of report

1:21.3

on that? Yeah, when the Melrose closed in 2017, it was a real loss for me. And I think anyone who loves a restaurant,

1:29.3

loves the people who work there, loves the food, I call it in the book a kind of a dispossession

1:34.7

when a restaurant closes. And so that was kind of the, for me, the personal angle here was my beloved

1:39.9

milrose closed. But also, I came out in the 90s and came of age in the 90s when gay restaurants

1:46.7

were a dime a dozen in neighborhoods here in New York and in Chicago and D.C. where I lived. I hadn't

1:52.2

been seeing that really so much anymore. And I thought, well, what's up with with gay restaurants?

1:57.8

Where have they gone? What do they look like today? And I think that was really

2:01.6

the impetus to sort of explore that and say, yeah, I need to answer that question. And not just now,

2:08.0

but also a hundred years ago. Where were people eating then? And how has gay dining changed since then?

2:14.1

Now, the obvious question to lay out here is what is a gay restaurant?

...

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