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The Business of Fashion Podcast

H&M's AI Models and the Future of Fashion Marketing

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 1 April 2025

⏱️ 20 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Fast-fashion giant H&M recently announced its plans to deploy AI-generated "digital twins" of real-life models in marketing campaigns. While H&M argues it's proactively managing inevitable industry changes, including by working with models to compensate them for use of their AI versions, the decision has sparked significant backlash. Comments on social media and statements by industry figures highlight deep-seated anxieties around job security, creative integrity and the value of the human element in fashion. 


BoF correspondents Marc Bain and Haley Crawford discuss the potential outcomes and tensions arising from AI’s expanding role in fashion marketing.


Key Insights: 


  • H&M is just the tip of the iceberg: Fashion brands are increasingly embracing AI, from fast fashion to luxury. While AI-generated imagery has quietly infiltrated lower-end markets for some time, H&M's public embrace signifies its move out into the open, and into the world of high-profile campaigns. High-end brands like Coach and Estée Lauder have started using AI for product-focused imagery, indicating a cautious yet clear shift. "Coach uses Adobe Firefly to create digital twins of its products… to scale marketing content and test designs," says Crawford, highlighting how AI is already reshaping marketing across the fashion spectrum.


  • Transparency around AI use in marketing is still inconsistent, and regulations are lagging behind. "The technology is moving so rapidly, it's making its way out into the world already, and the law is trying to catch up," Bain explains. While the EU is moving toward legislating transparency in AI-generated imagery, the lack of clear rules globally adds complexity for brands and consumers alike, creating uncertainty around ethical marketing standards.


  • The rise of AI-generated imagery raises concerns over the loss of the creative collaboration intrinsic to traditional fashion shoots. "What's really at risk of being lost here is that communal process of creating fashion imagery," says Bain. "Some level of creativity and humanity, in addition to all the jobs themselves, which are also hugely important, will also be lost."


  • As AI image generation continues to be adopted by brands, it is creating increased competition, forcing both digital and traditional creatives to innovate further. "You can't only live in an endlessly self-referential cycle of AI image generation, even if AI is piecing different concepts together to generate newness," Crawford says. "People working on photography, art, whatever the artistic format is, will only get more creative and people are going to experiment more to stand out."


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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to the debrief from the Business of Fashion, where each week we delve into our most popular B.OF professional stories with the correspondence who created them.

0:17.4

I'm executive editor Brian Baskin.

0:20.3

H&M last week told BOF that it would start using AI-generated digital twins of real

0:26.7

models on social media and in marketing campaigns.

0:30.6

In an unusual acknowledgement, Chief Creative Officer Juergen Anderson said he knew

0:36.1

people would be divided over the use of AI models,

0:39.3

but that H&M wanted to lead a conversation that takes the model, the agency, and the best

0:45.8

interests of the fashion industry into consideration. If the goal was to head off criticism,

0:51.8

H&M has its work cut out for it, judging from the overwhelmingly

0:55.5

negative initial response online and from some industry figures. But Anderson also has a point.

1:02.3

Love it or hate it, AI is already reshaping marketing. Some in the industry view last week

1:07.8

as something of a watershed moment between H&M and OpenAI's release of a powerful new image generator.

1:14.9

Here today to discuss why AI imagery has become such a lightning rod in the fashion industry and beyond is technology correspondent Mark Bain and marketing correspondent Haley Crawford.

1:26.6

Hello, Mark. Hello, Haley.

1:28.2

Welcome to the debrief podcast.

1:30.3

Hey, Brian.

1:31.0

Hi, Brian.

1:32.3

Mark, I'd like to start with you and your story about H&M,

1:35.7

which almost as soon as it came out was getting hundreds of comments on our Instagram post online,

1:41.0

got picked up by global media.

1:43.0

There were people talking about it everywhere.

1:45.7

Tell us more about H&M's plans for AI models and why it seems to have struck a nerve.

...

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