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The Audio Long Read

From the archive: Food fraud and counterfeit cotton: the detectives untangling the global supply chain

The Audio Long Read

The Guardian

Society & Culture

4.32.4K Ratings

🗓️ 7 May 2025

⏱️ 48 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

We are raiding the Guardian long read archives to bring you some classic pieces from years past, with new introductions from the authors. This week, from 2021: Amid the complex web of international trade, proving the authenticity of a product can be near-impossible. But one company is taking the search to the atomic level By Samanth Subramanian. Read by Raj Ghatak. Help support our independent journalism at theguardian.com/longreadpod

Transcript

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0:00.0

This is The Guardian.

0:02.0

Hey, it's Babberton de Alessi here.

0:11.0

I've just got back from an epic road trip around the island of Ireland.

0:16.0

From exploring natural wonders and stunning cost of views to chilling in a seaweed bath.

0:21.5

It's a vibe.

0:23.7

Best of all, you don't have to pick between the Causeway coastal routes and the Wild Atlantic Way.

0:28.9

You can experience both iconic routes in one unforgettable trip.

0:33.4

Explore everything Ireland has to offer at the Guardian.com forward slash tourism island.

0:38.9

This message was paid for by Tourism Island.

0:46.0

The Guardian Archive Longread. Longeranian. Hi, this is Saman Subramanian.

1:01.0

I'm here to introduce food fraud and counterfeit cotton, the detectives untangling the global

1:07.4

supply chain, which was a Guardian Long Read, published in 2021.

1:16.0

Somewhere in the Daily Press, or maybe in a business paper, I'd read about this company called Auditaine, a company that was based in New Zealand, and that was testing organic food

1:23.7

materials, organic textiles, anything that was made from nature or grown locally anywhere,

1:29.4

they were testing these products for their chemical composition. And apparently these tests have

1:34.7

grown so advanced over the last 20 years that you can determine virtually to within a square

1:40.5

kilometer where a particular grape was grown or where coffee comes from.

1:45.8

And that got me thinking why there was this need in the first place to test these products,

1:52.5

why companies and governments and nonprofits wanted to test these products and why provenance

1:58.4

matters so much. We value providence a lot in other kinds of domains. We value providence a lot in other kinds of

2:03.4

domains. We value provenance in art because we want to know who's held a particular artwork

2:08.6

or who has sold it and bought it in the past. But we rarely think about provenance except in the

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